America's Toughest Tables: Dining at the Hottest Restaurants

Snazzy Spots

Dining at 5 o'clock is unheard of in Paris, which is what makes an already tough reservation at Le Comptoir, a Left Bank gastro bistro, even tougher. People have been known to wait three to six months for a meal prepared by compelling chef Yves Camdeborde (formerly of La Regalade) served at bargain-basement prices.

Los Angelinos that don't want to wait so long for a table at Pizzeria Mozza and Osteria Mozza will do just about anything to land a table at Mario Batali's hopping joint ventures with Nancy Silverton. It's a good thing David Rosoff, the general manager, has a strong moral backbone.

"Just yesterday, somebody asked me flat out on the phone if I would take a bribe," says Rosoff, who recently turned down an offer of Lakers' tickets in exchange for a prime-time table.

"People are pretty shameless about name-dropping," he adds. "Before they even say what they want, they're letting you know who they know in Hollywood."

Rosoff stands as firm as Silverton's standout pizza crust.

"Even my mother," he says, "needs a reservation."

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