White Truffles: The New Caviar?
With white truffle prices soaring, chefs debate their spot on the menu.
Nov. 8, 2007 — -- Would you pay $200 for a plate of pasta?
You might just have to — assuming you want your penne sprinkled with fresh Italian white truffle shavings.
Truffles, the fungi with the renowned reputation as one of the most high-class foods in the world, are harder to find and more expensive than ever this season.
"The pricing of truffles is traditionally very high because they are one of the rarest foods on Earth," said John Magazino, president of Primizie Fine Foods, a New York-based truffle distributor. "Last year prices were around $2,000 a pound on average, but this year they're twice that, costing $4,000 a pound."
The price surge can be explained by two factors, Magazino said. A dry, hot summer in Italy, where most of the white truffles are grown, led to a much smaller crop because white truffles require plenty of water to survive.
The weak U.S. dollar has also contributed to this year's pricey truffles.
White truffles are available only between mid-October and the end of December, and with such a short season chefs have had to decide whether to invest in the aphrodisiac garnish, or just wait until next year.
"[Restaurants] are spending at least $20,000 a week on fresh white truffles," said Magazino, whose company overnights truffles to customers in the United States because they only stay fresh for four to five days. "Jean Georges and Daniel and the restaurants everyone traditionally associates with the most expensive foods are still getting the truffles, but restaurants at the second tier are not."
While the average restaurant-goer may not mind a menu devoid of white truffles, food experts told ABCNEWS.com that the demand for the rare ingredient is still high despite exorbitant prices and the decreasing number of restaurants that can afford the delicacy.
High-profile chefs trying to decide whether to splurge for white truffles or let this season pass them by told ABCNEWS.com that, regardless of their decisions, the flavor really is irreplaceable.
"Nothing can be substituted for a white truffle," said Alice Waters, owner of San Francisco restaurant Chez Panisse, who has been using truffles for more than 20 years. "It's just a beautiful, rare thing."
But she has yet to taste a white truffle this season because of the high prices.
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