New Cookbooks Preach Gospel of No-Knead Breads

For physician Jeffrey Hertzberg and baker Zoe Francois, the journey to no-knead bread began innocently enough.

This book cover released by Thomas Dunne Books shows the cover of "Healthy Bread in Five Minutes a Day" by Jeff Hertzberg and Zoe Francois.(AP Photo/Thomas Dunne Books)

(AP)

While their toddlers learned to play the xylophone in a Minneapolis music class, Hertzberg began telling Francois about his no-knead, 5-minute mix of flour, salt, yeast and water.

Made in large batches, the dough can be refrigerated for weeks and baked one loaf at a time by simply cutting off a piece, letting it rise, shaping and baking. Trained in traditional methods, Francois was skeptical, but she saw promise in the chemistry Hertzberg was selling: a wetter-than-average dough that was easier to handle and simple to work with.

This month, the duo is releasing their second book on no-knead bread, joined by tomes from two fellow bread pioneers.

Bread has followed a rocky path in American culture of late. Demonized during the low-carb craze of the 1990s, bread resurfaced as the darling of the artisanal movement. The desire to have those fancy and healthy loaves at home spawned interest in low- and no-knead bread baking methods.

"I think there is a real interest lately in do-it-yourself projects and bread falls in that," says Karen Bornarth, head of the bread department at The French Culinary Institute in New York. "Supermarket breads or commercial breads, if you read the labels they are filled with preservatives. There are not a lot of bakeries out there. Bakeries are dying. So if (people) want good bread, they have to make it themselves."

Trained at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., Francois embraced Hertzberg's method after checking it out herself.

"When I tried it, it really was revolutionary, and was mind boggling because it went against everything I had been taught," she said. "Everybody had to know about this."

The first book from the two, "Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day" (Thomas Dunne Books, 2007), was well received and has 200,000 copies in print. This month, they release "Healthy Bread in Five Minutes a Day." Two other no- or low-knead bread bakers also put out books in October: Jim Lahey with "My Bread" (W.W. Norton & Co.) and Peter Reinhart (who pledges ease more than outright no-knead) with "Artisan Breads Everyday" (Ten Speed Press).