Thai Restaurant Thrives in War-Torn Kabul

K A B U L, Aghanistan, July 16 -- Kabul is still not a destination for tourists.

During its heyday in the 1970s, it was a common stop along the "hippie trail" and earned renown as one of the three K's (Kabul, Katmandu, Nepal, and Kuta in Bali, Indonesia). But after years of devastating war, the Afghan capital is not known for its night life.

Western Europeans and Americans are returning to this city of 3.3 million as U.N. employees, nongovernmental organization workers, journalists, and employees attached to the various embassies that have reopened since the fall of the Taliban 18 months ago. When they do venture out in the evening, they are mostly likely found at Lai Thai.

Warlords and Spring Rolls

Lai Thai, as the name implies, is a Thai restaurant. It serves every Thai dish one might find on a menu in Bangkok or Chiang Mai, complemented with wine flown in from Australia and prawns (shrimp) shipped weekly from Dubai.

The Wazir Akbar Khan section of Kabul, where the restaurant is located, is a desirable area of town with large homes. It's believed to have been the neighborhood of choice for members of al Qaeda when the Taliban ruled Afghanistan.

Whether dining in the restaurant's courtyard or main dining room, one can eavesdrop on conversations in German, Italian, Spanish, Dutch, French, Japanese, Russian and, of course, English (American, British, Irish, Canadian and native dialects).

The cacophony of laughter and so many multilingual conversations carried on by Kabul's expatriate population, estimated to be roughly 1,800, makes visitors aware that they are at the epicenter of Afghan "night life" for foreigners.

Despite spotty service, flashing Christmas tree lights in the courtyard — occasionally known to create headaches for diners — and Western prices ($4 for spring rolls and $7.50 for pad thai), patrons wait in line to be seated at Lai Thai, night in and out.

Chain Stores for Combat Zones

Lalita Thongngamkam is the owner and founder of Lai Thai and it is not her first restaurant.