Travel

Tourists in the Mist: Finding Rwanda's Famous Apes

According to research, about 50 percent of baby gorillas don't reach their third year. It can be from disease, inbreeding, or poaching.

We positioned ourselves about three feet away from the nearest gorillas, as instructed by the guides. But as we were warned might happen, the boss made big threatening noises and charged us. Dominance matters in the jungle and we readily submit to his, lying down and looking away as we were instructed.

We were allowed to stay only an hour, and just as we were told we'll have to go, the boss beat his chest — yes they really do this — once again showing us who's running this operation, and the gorillas marched off in stately fashion.

And so our excellent adventure — almost a spiritual experience we all agree — is over, well worth every muddy footstep. This family of mountain gorillas may not know it, but they are helping preserve not just their own species … but a lot of people's lives in this struggling country as well.

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