White House Pastry Chef Hangs Up Spatula
July 25, 2004 -- Standing in the White House pastry kitchen, clad in an impeccably white coat with an equally white toque standing straight on his head, Roland Mesnier is putting the finishing touches on dessert for the working luncheon President Bush is hosting for the president of Chile.
Mesnier twists the plate holding a light orange bombe, a melon sherbet cake decorated with a spray of chocolate flowers, carefully placing a ring of fresh cherries around it.
"It's almost like placing diamonds on a crown," says Mesnier, metal framed half-glasses midway down his nose, "everything has to be placed perfectly."
At age 60, after 25 years at the White House, the days are winding down to his last desserts. He will retire July 30. Yet, he's still proud of every new creation.
"They were truly created at the White House for a special function and for the president and first lady of the United States. How better can it get? I don't think so! It's the best. It's the top."
From France to the White House
Mesnier began as an apprentice in a pastry shop in his native France at age 12 then climbed the pastry kitchen ladder there. Trained as well in Germany and England, he eventually became pastry chef at Paris' posh George V hotel. Eventually he came to the United States and the Homestead resort in Hot Springs, Va.
Hired by Rosalyn Carter in 1979, Mesnier has created desserts for five presidents, with different backgrounds, different politics and different tastes. But he converted every one to a common belief.
"Every president loves desserts, even if they didn't like desserts before they got here," he says with more than a trace of a French accent. "Within weeks, they were converted to a dessert lover."
Slightly plump, with a round face and a ready laugh, Mesnier relishes talking about his creations and his core belief about ingredients.
"They will respond to you according to your work with them, how you treat them," he says. "It's like a lady. You treat her nice, she's nice to you."
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