By Nickshif

Apr 2, 2007 5:12pm

Discovering the Key to the World

Our series "Key to the World" will feature four stories reported by Bill Weir that try to examine the challenges of our time: global warming, infant mortality, globalization, and environmental conservation. Today, Bill blogs from the location of his first story: the island-nation of Kiribati, which is slowly disappearing due to global warming.

Social strata are tough to gauge in the developing world, but there seems to be one universal truth: people with limited options live next to the airport.

We drive past the ramshackle terminal building, down the country’s single runway to see the beach erosion that could spell this country’s extinction. And there on the wide, hot tarmac, a joyous soccer game is underway with an audience of three goats. The young athletes are children from the fastest-growing neighborhood on the island: huts on a flight path.

33 little islands make up the nation of Kiribati. The biggest is Tarawa, a necklace of coral, sand and palm trees the width of a city block in most places. Locals live in small, open-sided homes built on narrow patches between the road and the sea. With the outer atolls submerging the fastest, people are leaving those villages and moving to Tarawa, where space is scarce.

Just before a plane appears in the perfect sky, a man climbs into a pickup truck and goes tearing down the runway, horn honking and siren blaring. (Since this is the one few smooth stretches of concrete within a few million square miles, this may be the most thrilling job in the entire country.) The soccer players begrudgingly move to the side, the mother carrying a sack of coral quickens her pace, the goats scatter, and a jumbo jet lands.

At LaGuardia or O’Hare, that job would get old quick. But on Kiribati, there are two commercial flights a week.

Another indication of pace here is the commute. It is always enlightening to share stories with commuters around the world — the New York subway never seems as bad when you meet a clerk in Zambia who walks 8 miles each way.) I once knew a skydiving instructor who lived near his drop zone and flew home every night. And there are those living near time zone lines who can get to work an hour before they leave the house).

But in Kiribati people walk on water. They carry their bundles down the beach, stride into the crystal waves, and head for the horizon. The first time you see them, it seems certain that they’ll be swallowed by the South Pacific. But they just keep walking until they are a speck on the horizon.

We soon learned that the center of the capitol island is a huge, shallow lagoon. It’s a wet shortcut, and brutally hot under the equatorial sun, but it is a lot quicker than the road. But as a further indication of this country’s plight, one man told me that years back, he would make the entire trip without the hem of his shorts getting wet. Today, it is well above the waist, and at high tide that stroll becomes a swim.

Kiribati: see it while you can.

User Comments

I was a Peace Corps Volunteer on one of the outer islands of Kiribati from 2001-2004. While I certainly can’t claim that everything was perfect in the country during my time there, I can say that the people and their beloved island home charmed me. Life in Kiribati is simple and slow–measured not in minutes, but in the comings and goings of the tide. That same tide that marks when it is time to fish, time to gather “te ibou” (a worm-like lagoon dweller that is eaten like jerky), or time to rest or play, has for some time been counting down to the end of their way of life. That global warming has been allowed to progress this far is unfortunate. That it could end an entire people’s way of life is a tragedy. Even in the most idyllic areas of New Zealand, Fiji, and Australia, the I-Kiribati will be forced to adapt to a whole new social and economic system (on the outer islands, much of the economy is based on barter using coconuts as currency–money that literally grows on trees). It will be as though they were expelled from paradise. I’m glad that ABC News has taken on this story, and I look forward to seeing Bill Weir’s other stories. Thank you.

Posted by: David | April 2, 2007, 6:41 pm 6:41 pm

Bill: Excellent report – great to see more world news and the plight of other people. I emigrated from Scotland many years ago, always watched ABC news and Charlie on GMA. Keep up the great work and let us know more of the world’s people.
Thank you.
Bett Davids

Posted by: Bett Davids | April 2, 2007, 6:58 pm 6:58 pm

Thank you!!!!!!!!!!
What a pleasure watching the extended version of WorldNews. Fantastic coverage without having mindless, idiotic commercial interruptions! Please keep doing a great job. Congratulations!
Hilton

Posted by: Hilton | April 2, 2007, 7:16 pm 7:16 pm

My daughter is currently a Peace Corps volunteer in Kiribati, on the island of Beru, she too is upset with the fact the the islands are disappearing into the Central Pacific. The citizens of the country are good and kind people who deserve to be able to stay in their homeland. We must all work together for this cause. Thank-you for showing us their way of life.

Posted by: Eugenia Levins | April 2, 2007, 7:42 pm 7:42 pm

Thanks, Charlie for making World News more wordly.Iknow that one sponsor is responsible, but a choice to show us the world, mustn’t have been easy.
Bill, as always you do an incredible job. I’m a Canadian and like to see what goes on at our neighbours (U.S.), but love to think what your six minutes is showing – we are all neighbours.

Posted by: Jane MacAskill | April 2, 2007, 8:07 pm 8:07 pm

What a terrific story, and so tragic. The compelling speech that their president must have delivered should really resonate with the people who are quite literally comprimising the sovereignty of this nation. Have you found that they wish to hold anyone financially or legally responsible for this? If someone invades another country, we go to war to stop them. What if someone wipes a country off the map? Who is held accountable for the loss of a culture, a nation, a society?
Frank Buono

Posted by: Frank Buono | April 2, 2007, 8:11 pm 8:11 pm

This was the most WAKE-UP CALL we could ever get. On how the world is changing. I hope this makes some people think about all those big cars and trucks they drive around? I think Bill Wier is the best reporter this side of Charles Gibson.

Posted by: Ken Smock | April 2, 2007, 8:22 pm 8:22 pm

There are so many special things about the Kiribati culture and language. Their language is very robust and, unlike other Pacific peoples’, not in danger of losing to English. But if they are scattered to the winds — even en masse to Australia or New Zealand — it may be hard for the traditions and the language to survive. The best hope is for some Pacific country with small islands to spare (Fiji?) to allow these atoll folk to inhabit them. Kiribati is a difficult place to live — if they can live here, they can live most places, even islands that others have seen as offering too harsh a climate or scant resources. I lived in Kiribati for two years and miss the people very much. I’m praying that the Kiribati president is wrong in his prediction. But a plan B – many plan Bs! – is necessary

Posted by: Eric Larson | April 2, 2007, 8:40 pm 8:40 pm

Interesting story on Kiribati but the issue of the threats to small islands is actually a lot closer to us than you realize. A few years ago I remember the former Ambassador from Antigua sounding the alarm regarding the threat to his country from the rising sea levels. Can the islands of the Bahamas be any safer.

Posted by: Pauline Ford-Caesar | April 2, 2007, 10:52 pm 10:52 pm

I trained Peace Corps Volunteers in Kiribati in the mid-80s. Thanks so much for the report. The last time I saw scenes of what was a memorable experience was at the turn of the millenium. I worked with Peace Corps all over Africa and the Pacific from 1968 through 1987. Kiribati was the one place I always wanted to go back and visit. Sadly, I guess I should make some reservations. That it will one day be under water,I presume,is inevitible. Having lived so close to the edge for many years, I have faith that these wonderful people will survive and prosper elsewhere. Talk about a diaspora — this is the one for the 21st century. The western world shares the guilt for making it happen. Again, thank you for putting the issue in our face.

Posted by: Arthur Rodger | April 2, 2007, 11:23 pm 11:23 pm

It is ashame that ABC did not do their homework and falsely claimed that the island chains problems have anything to do with global warming.
I guess that is the state of news nowadays. The island is a coral atoll in an active seismic region. The water isn’t rising, the island is collapsing as are many similar islands in the pacific in that region.

Posted by: John Bristor | April 3, 2007, 4:04 am 4:04 am

Bill:
I recently read a National Geographic article which stressed the importance of Mangrove plants in various coastal locations as a way to prevent beach erosion and minimize damage from tsunamis and unexpected tidal surges.
I am not a marine biologist but could there be a way to plant mangroves in Kiribati to protect the island from sinking? The Nat’t Geo article also pointed out that mangroves also absorb carbon dioxide (sink) further reversing the effects from global warming. I would suggest further research into using mangroves to protect the island.
Good luck and keep up the good work.
Best regards,
Chris McClave

Posted by: Chris McClave | April 3, 2007, 10:37 am 10:37 am

I want more of this kind of reporting. There is so much more happening on Earth than the activities in the Middle East, Iraq, Iran, celebrities etc. I want the global picture and I think these reports by Bill Weir will answer that need. Thank you for fewer ads Pfizer.

Posted by: Kathy | April 3, 2007, 2:43 pm 2:43 pm

We just visited my daughter who is a peace corps volunteer in Republic of Kiribati. She is working in Tibiteau South island which is south of Tarawa. They walk through water if it is a low tide with her bicycle on her shoulder, otherwise rent a Canoe.

Posted by: Daksha | April 3, 2007, 5:18 pm 5:18 pm

The story was a complete fake out. Yes, Kiribati is sinking. But it is sinking because it is a coral atoll. Coral Atolls are built on top of SINKING volcanoes. Coral Atolls are always sinking.
Look up “atoll” on wikipedia, it has a great animation that shows who this works.
They are going to use anything they can to push the idea of global warming. And it seems their motto is “There’s a sucker born every minute”.

Posted by: fred | April 3, 2007, 7:22 pm 7:22 pm

Dear World News,
Thank you for providing us viewers with an extended version of the show. It was so refreshing to be able to watch more of the wonderful reporting that Bill provided, rather than an abbreviated version. I have never heard of Kirabati before the show and was deeply saddened to hear of the dire condition of the islands, and of their way of life of the inhabitants and it possibly being lost forever. Global warming is an urget issue that can’t be ignored or dismissed any longer. I hope this show (and hopefully more like it to come) will continue to shine a much needed spotlight on the issue that affects our world as we know it. Thank you for your informative and honest reporting. We need more human interest stories and environmental reports like this.

Posted by: Anna Krausnick | April 3, 2007, 7:30 pm 7:30 pm

Dear Mr. Weir,
I was wondering how the people of Kiribati were effected by the tsunami that occurred today in the Pacific Ocean. Do you how they are fairing?

Posted by: Kara | April 3, 2007, 9:51 pm 9:51 pm

Mauri ,
I too have just visited my daughter in Kiribati, posted to Butaritari, and whether the atolls are sinking or the waters are rising, or Both perhaps, I am very concerned for the Kiribati people. Something pulls at your heart and many visitors have a desire to return. Bill – I am wondering if you yourself visited any of the outer islands? Tarawa is so much different and more developed. I wish you had chosen to show more of the native housing most Kiribati live in. Concrete block homes are much more rare on the outer islands. Many of the people moving there from the outer islands are becoming more dependent on outside resources for survival already. Another looming problem is the import of so much palstic. Again much worse on Tarawa. In spite of it all I don’t think it is possible to convey what makes Kiribati possible to be totally frustating for an outsider while pulling one into it’s heart. I feel lucky I was able to be there as a Peace Corp mom and live with people. I will try to do what I can for the people I made connections with personally. Even this requires much patience as the communications and delivery of mail or goods take much planning and coordinating. Because the inter-island ‘commuter’ plane has been down for more than eight weeks (this time) and the boat is sporadic it is even more difficult. The Peace Corps is reviewing it’s involvment there because of those limitations and have evacuated the southern islands as of March 2007. I came home with a renewed sense that the imprint I make on the earth needs to be more mindful than ever. If it comes to it I would gladly open my place in the worls to some I-Kiribati.

Posted by: Erica Walsh | April 3, 2007, 10:50 pm 10:50 pm

Hi Bill,
It was great seeing your program about Kiribati. My family all sent me the link to watch it over the Internet. I’m surprised you came and went and I never heard anything about it – and you were right in my neighborhood! I have been living in Kiribati now for nearly ten years. I can certainly see that the water level is rising. I live right on the lagoon and each year the sea is getting higher. We build a sea wall, the relatively mild waves take it down (nothing compared to the storms on the east coast of theUS where I grew up). So we build it higher, and it’s still not high enough. There’s definitely something happening to bring the waters higher here. I’d like to comment on some of the other comments. First, I don’t know that anyone in Kiribati is pointing the finger at who may be responsible for all this. No one gives that much thought to tomorrow in these islands. These are an extremely resilient people, taking life as it comes, hardships and all. When your house takes sea damage, you patch it up. Maybe you try to build a sea wall. When it falls down – you build it up again. That’s just the way it is.
As for the mangroves, yes, there is some work towards planting mangroves and it does help, but not enough.
I appreciate reading everyone’s remarks. Those of you who have been here know, Kiribati is a special place and the people are one of a kind. They shouldn’t have to lose their homeland – for whatever reason. It’s a tragedy.

Posted by: Diane Laws | April 4, 2007, 5:53 am 5:53 am

Like most people I guess, I had no idea that Kiribati existed. Tarawa,yes, from WWII. At most I probably would have thought it was a desert island to escape to.
I looked all over on the internet, Google, ASK, ABC News search etc. and could find very little about the island.
I’m concerned now about the tsunamis that occured over the weekend in the Solomans. Was Kiribati in any danger?

Posted by: james bremner | April 4, 2007, 11:24 am 11:24 am

Mauri,
For all you concerned about the effects that Kiribati might have incurred because of the earth quake in the Solomon Islands I spoke with one of the Peace Corps volunteers on Tarawa. She had just come in from one of the southern outer islands had not even known it had happened until arriving in Tarawa several days after the event. Some islands have good radio reception but there are not always radios or even phones available at all sometimes. The I-Kiribati were not affected by the earth quake.

Posted by: Erica Boyd | April 5, 2007, 12:59 am 12:59 am

We need someone to lead us properly and solve the issues that really matter to us. If President Bush or any other president really wants to protect our country from future terrorists, he or she should combat global poverty which is at the root of the problem. We don’t need to be in a war that benefits the businesses of Americans. We need to be helping the rest of the world in order to help ourselves which would really benefit the economy. We could actually be doing businesses with the past “poor” countries of this world.

Posted by: marie2 | April 5, 2007, 1:52 pm 1:52 pm

I visit kiribati when i went on a cruise ship to islands in 2004.I seen how they live it is very poor there in that 2 world like living they had only one store that sales only cirgarette and stamps no food.they eat off the trees coconut papaya mango fish wild pigs chickens. kiwi fruit bananas,and the schools on one side of islands is very poor i felt like crying it makes you appreciate what you have and dont take things for grant.i wish i could help them i wanted to come home and send them some clothes and shoes but i didnt know how i would get it there. they didnt have cars only bikes know street or side walk, dirt road.it was something to experience coming from usa.the natives there even sang to us and the only word the talk was no or shake your head on that part of island.

Posted by: elaine | April 7, 2007, 12:40 am 12:40 am

Bahama Flights

Travel Planning Nassau Bahamas Nassau, Bahamas Other Bahamas destinations: There\’s def

Posted by: Bahama Flights | April 20, 2007, 12:43 pm 12:43 pm

The way I look at it is Ice (frozen water that increases in volume by about 9%) witch is mostly under water is expanded water. So when all the ice melts the water level will go down and there will be more land. Coral islands continue to grow if theft undisturbed.
Global warming is a natural occurrence as the world’s climate stabilizes from the effects of the ice ages. We are trying to stop the effects caused by the ice age. Regardless what mankind does the earths atmosphere will return to a stabilized state.
So you ask then why is Kiribati sinking. Well it is not! And I ask why is it only on the islands with the most population were we see the most effects of the so called global warming.
The low-lying atolls of Kiribati, rising no higher than three meters above sea-level, makes the country very vulnerable to climate change yes but more so to urban pressure and over population causing groundwater depletion, marine-life and sea-water contamination from human and solid waste, over-fishing of the reefs and lagoons, coastal erosion from beach mining of the beaches to replace traditional homes with concert homes and buildings and sea walls. The country is also facing considerable socioeconomic difficulties due to the poor management of population growth. The money being spent on Kiribati and countries like it for global warming would be better off spent on birth control and education in urban development. Kiribati with an average population density of 115 per square kilometer and 2558 per square kilometer in south Tarawa should be taught that there is a limit to its countries growth. Kiribati is not a poor country. It may look poor but this is the way the government wants it. It is a country that lives on aid with money in the bank that they took from banaba. Kiribati is not sinking and has lots of land to relocate there people to. Kiribati needs to learn to take care of them selves. If you want to help educate them, and stop throwing money away.

Posted by: Sue | March 4, 2009, 5:24 pm 5:24 pm

An argument that leaves me gobb-smacked is the sinking island of Kiribati which supposedly is happening because of man-induced global warming. A friend owns a resort off the island of Fiji which he purchased twenty years ago. He says that the water there has not risen even one millimetre during that time. My simple schoolboy physics tells me that water rises until it reaches its equilibrium, so if the global warming argument is correct then as Kiribati goes under then all other islands in the same ocean (Fiji, Hawaii, Noumea, Solomons etc, etc) should also be going under.Guys, the sky isn’t falling, the earth is sinking!

Posted by: peter simic | December 6, 2009, 7:15 pm 7:15 pm

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