Safi Air’s Unusual In-Flight Magazine

ABC News' Clark Bentson reports: As usual, the Safi Air flight from Dubai to Kabul is absolutely packed.  I always wonder why so many people are headed to Kabul. As I glance around the cabin and look at my fellow passengers, I spot the obvious private security contractors; the Western women who probably work for an NGO trying to blend in by wearing Afghani clothes;  and the foreign policy wonks reading very technical briefing books. I am not a squeamish flier, but I would be foolish not to be a little nervous when flying on an airline that is headquartered in poor Afghanistan.  A few days before my flight another Afghan airline crashed north of Kabul; the rumor being spare parts were the cause.  But since I started flying Safi last year, the planes have seemed relatively new and have appeared in good condition – at least in the cabin. I also took some comfort when Capt. “Spud,” an Idaho native was the pilot for a couple of my journeys in and out. So I wedge my duty free into the overstuffed bins and sit next to my burly seat companion literally shoulder to shoulder. It is a 2.5-hour flight and I have just connected from a sleepless, long-haul overnight flight from Europe so I really want to get some rest.  But after a few attempts I realize it is impossible. My Kindle is packed away out of reach so I decide to see what might be in the seat pocket in front of me. I really don’t expect Safi to have an in-flight magazine. I don’t remember one from previous trips. So I am somewhat surprised to pull out an April/May edition complete with cover photo of a bustling traffic circle with hoards of people in downtown Kabul. Not an appealing photo that makes you want to visit Afghanistan’s capital – but a realistic view. I travel a lot of different airlines and have read many different in-flight magazines. Most have a feature story about some new destination or a story about the latest cultural happenings in some major city.  Some, like British Airways’ High Life and Business Traveller, are really quite good. But with many of them  you quickly flip through the hundreds of advertisements and glance at the destination maps in the back. The first story in the Safi magazine is about organized dog fighting in Kabul! What would be considered heinous and cruel in most parts of the world is a popular attraction in the winter months in Kabul and other parts of the country.  The photos show two full-grown mutts ripping at each other’s throats while thousands of men (no women attend) cheer. The article tells when are the best times to see the spectacle and a little bit of the rules. (Dogs are not allowed to fight to the death, only until one pins the other to the ground – like in wrestling match.) Betting of course makes it more exciting. I am not shocked by the fact that dog fighting exists.  I am aware of it as well as other cultural activities that may not sit well with outsiders — like the Afghan sport similar to polo, but you use a goat’s head instead of a ball.  But, what I find interesting is that Safi is presenting this in a type of magazine that normally would exalt tourist locations or resorts destinations. So I read on. The infamous NATO airstrike ordered by the Germans in Kunduz last year killed between 17 and 142 civilian depending on which reports you read.  The in-flight article calls it “one of the most devastating attacks against real or presumed Taliban” in Afghanistan. It is accompanied by a photo of a man maimed in the attack. Two German journalists present a show of essays and other photos at Potsdam display from April.  Safi doesn’t fly to Potsdam! Eventually there are a few articles about destinations Safi flies to: new routes to booming Doha, art galleries in Abu Dhabi, recipes from Kuwait. Toward the back there are the perfunctory architectural highlights (albeit badly damaged from the many conflicts) that few would dare venture to see. But there are also ads for landmine-resistant vehicles in case you are in need when you arrive. Safi’s hub, Kabul, has changed dramatically each year since the Taliban were driven out.  Each time I come there is a new restaurant replacing one that has been forced to close because of security issues. Guest Houses and the luxury Serena hotel have been targeted.  So you might expect the Safi city guide to in flux on where to go. But it is not shy about its blunt warnings for passengers. “Westerners are occasionally targeted by criminals or Taliban sympathizers, and kidnapping can be a threat. The target of suicide bombers are mostly military convoys, stay far away. Riots happen occasionally and are always accompanied by looting. – stay away as authorities will respond with lethal force. Avoid walking after dark and change your routes during the day. Kabul is generally considered one of the safe parts of the country, but bombings have increased since late 2006.” There is no effort to cover up glaring problems that this country is facing in this in-flight guide. A four-page spread on the growing heroin addiction problem and ways to help is accompanied by grim black and white photos. I made a point to take a copy with me. At first I joked a bit with my colleague, but realized that it was an honest and frank portrayal of what it is like to come and try to function in this chaotic but fascinating city. The magazine makes no attempts to hide the flaws of this place. Anyway, most of the people on my flight are aware of what awaits when they land.