Like Santa, chefs and waiters will work on Christmas

— -- In the midst of one of the restaurant industry's worst-ever downturns, thousands of restaurants nationwide will do something on Christmas Eve or Christmas Day or New Year's Day that they've never done before: open the doors.

While consumers are used to some chains such as Denny's and IHOP keeping units open on Christmas, it's been rare for most restaurants — from burger joints to those with white tablecloths — to stay open on Christmas Eve and Christmas.

This year is an exception. After a terrible 2008, there is growing sentiment to keep the doors open on Christmas. "It makes perfect sense," says Hudson Riehle, senior vice president at the National Restaurant Association. "This is the toughest environment since the early 1980s."

The NRA projects that restaurant sales nationally will grow an anemic 2.5% in 2009. Adjusted for inflation, sales will actually decline 1%, says Riehle.

Here's why many restaurant owners will stay open over the holidays:

•To nudge sales. Mitchell's Fish Market, which has 19 locations in nine states, will for the first time open all units on New Year's Day. "It will provide additional revenue given today's challenging times," says Tom Burmane, operations vice president.

Atlanta's Parish Foods & Goods will be open Christmas Eve and New Year's Day. "We want to capture sales that we didn't think would be there," says Sean Gray, general manager.

In Raleigh, N.C., Irregardless Cafe will be open Christmas Eve and Christmas. "We're looking for the holiday to give us a boost," says owner Arthur Gordon. Business is off 20% this year, and he expects a 20% drop in 2009.

To pick up extra sales, Mom's Hamburgers, a 24-year-old burger joint in Mansfield, Ohio, will be open Christmas Eve for the first time, says owner Steve Reed.

•To make up for a lousy year. For the past 12 years, the Payard Bistro in Manhattan has never been open Christmas Eve. It will be this year, with a $45 prix fixe meal that would sell for $65. "Every restaurant is down 20% to 30% this year," says owner Francois Payard. "This will put a lot of people through the door."