The Franco-German Face of Alsace

Sept. 24 -- — The region of Alsace, now in eastern France but at times part of western Germany, stands like a flower-child referee between the two countries.

This is a lush land of Hansel-and-Gretel villages, sprawling vineyards, and engaging towns and cities. As evidence of their dual heritage, locals have names like Jacques Schmidt and can swear bilingually.

Alsatian cuisine is a tourist attraction in itself. The German influence is obvious. Look for choucroute garnie (sauerkraut and sausage), although it seems a shame to eat it in a fancy restaurant. For dessert, try glace Kugelhopf, an irresistible light cake mixed with raisins, almonds, dried fruit and cherry liqueur.

To get a taste of small-town Alsatian life, visit tiny Eguisheim. Stop by up-tempo Strasbourg for a big city — one that's been at the cultural crossroads since the time of the Romans.

Eguisheim is a circular, festooned little wine town (pop: 1,600), almost too cute for its own good. Ideal for a relaxing lunch and vineyard walks, it makes a good base for exploring the Wine Road of the Alsace.

While Eguisheim's ancient wall is gone, the street running along its original ramparts survives, scenically circling the village. The main drag bisects the circle, leading to a darling main square right out of a Grimm's fairy tale, lined with Renaissance houses. Lose all sense of discipline and wander the town, sampling the shops, cafés, and fruit of the local vine.

Bustling Strasbourg, in contrast, is urban Alsace at its best. It's progressive and livable, with generous space devoted to pedestrians, scads of bikes, sleek trams, meandering waterways and a young, lively mix of university students, Eurocrats and street people. This place has an Amsterdam-like feel. Situated just west of the Rhine River, Strasbourg provides the ultimate blend of Franco-Germanic culture.

Take a cruise on the river on a glass-topped boat. You'll pass through two locks as you circle Strasbourg's old town clockwise. The highlight for me was cruising by the European Parliament buildings and the European Court of Human Rights.