Hill's Wiseguy Cookbook (New American Library) offers practical advice for guys "on the run," like substituting pork loin when your jailer won't let you to have veal.
"I love the Sopranos, but, if anything, they underplay food," Hill says. "I used to see bosses who would ruin $2,000 suits because they'd insist on cooking. And those guys don't wear aprons."
The Sopranos Family Cookbook features vignettes with each family member, as well as recipes. "Mama always cooked," Uncle Junior says. "No one died of too much cholesterol or some such crap."
Carmela extols the healing virtues of ziti. Dr. Melfi offers an essay on "Rage, Guilt, Loneliness and Food."
As for Hill, he plans to whip up one of his special "kick-back" antipasto heroes and watch The Sopranos' season premiere.
"I'm thinking that this season, it's time for either Paulie or Ralphie to get whacked," he says. "Both those guys have it coming to them."
And that's about as close as you can get to an expert opinion.
Buck Wolf is entertainment producer at ABCNEWS.com. The Wolf Files is published Tuesdays. If you want to receive weekly notice when a new column is published, join the e-mail list.