Tempest in a Coffee Cup

B E I J I N G, China, Nov. 29 -- To weary visitors, Starbucks’ tiny store amid the sprawling majesty of the imperial-era Forbidden City in Beijing is a welcome chance to rest with a frothy latte.

For some Chinese, however, the U.S. chain’s opening two months ago in the ancient home of China’s emperors is an act of American economic and cultural domination in one of their proudest national monuments — and on Tuesday they said they wanted the Yankees to go home.

“Tell some Chinese about the coffee shop and they react as ifshaken to their soul. ‘God!’ they exclaim, ‘Not the ForbiddenCity!’” the official China Consumer Journal groused.

Growing controversy about the Starbucks outlet promptedemployees to remove its trademark round green signs from outsidethe shop Tuesday, making it virtually impossible to distinguishfrom the dozens of gift shops dotting the massive complex ofpalaces and courtyards where China’s emperors once lived.

Administrators in charge of the 600-year-old palace were meetingto consider additional steps, which could include revokingStarbucks’ one-year lease, said the manager of a neighboring store,who refused to be identified by name.

Such action wouldn’t be completely without precedent. In April,city authorities ordered Kentucky Fried Chicken to close its storein Beihai Park, a scenic imperial garden near the Forbidden City,when its lease expires in 2002.

Cyber Dissent

The hoopla underscores the mixed emotions many Chinese havetoward the sweeping changes, Western influences and commercialismbrought by two decades of market reforms.

On Internet chat rooms, where criticism first surfaced after thecoffee shop opened Sept. 27, users lamented officials’ approval ofthe store, saying it reflected a get-rich-quick mentality. MostInternet chat room comment Tuesday was negative.

Supporters, however, said it was unfair to single out Starbucks,noting that the Forbidden City was already awash in commercialism.