Search for Roots on the Emerald Isle

March 5, 2008 -- DUBLIN, Ireland - Like many Irish-Americans, I'm curious about my roots. Unlike most Irish-Americans, my surname, Nephin, gives little hint that I am of Irish descent.

But I have proof. In County Mayo, in Ireland's rugged west country, sits Mount Nephin, a half-mile-tall peak.

It was here, 18 years ago, that I'd proposed to my wife Kathleen. But bad weather and lack of a road had prevented us from reaching the top that day. After driving as far up as safety would permit in the fog and rain, I'd opened the car door, plucked some small flowers and presented them and the ring to Kathleen.

Now we were making a return trip, and this time we were determined to get to the top. And as long as we were back in Ireland, we also planned to sightsee, celebrate our wedding anniversary, and run a marathon together.

First stop was Dublin, where we would run the Adidas Dublin Marathon. We curtailed our pub time, not wanting to run the 26.2 miles hung over. Besides, thanks to the weak dollar, pints cost about $8. A bottle of whiskey that would retail for about $25 at home was $35 here.

Then we visited Trinity College to see the Book of Kells, an eighth-century rendering of the four gospels of the New Testament that attracts a half-million visitors annually. The Book of Kells is kept under glass and is known for detailed and brightly colored images.

We strolled about and ate in Temple Bar, a popular tourist area. Besides traditional Irish fare like Guinness stew (made with beer and beef), a diverse range of ethnic food is available, from Italian to sushi. We hammed it up with a street performer who portrayed a living James Joyce "statue" near the original, and we tooled around the city on double-decker buses.

The marathon was also a good way to see Dublin as it wound through the city, Phoenix Park and various neighborhoods before ending near the start line not far from Trinity.

But the race left us depleted and we repaired to the Clontarf Castle Hotel, located several miles from the city center, for long, hot showers and a sound night's sleep.