Bernini's Famous Fountain Gets a Face-Lift

ROME, Dec. 10, 2008— -- The scaffolding came down just in time for the holidays, and now Gian Lorenzo Bernini's 17th century masterwork -- the Fountain of the Four Rivers -- has reclaimed its place as the centerpiece of Rome's famed Piazza Navona.

Restored to its original splendor, the white marble of the fountain is no longer yellow-gray and dulled by layers of soot, bird droppings and calcium buildup but gleams instead in the winter sunlight as the water gushes out and flows into the large basin beneath it.

This imposing fountain has always been a landmark in one of Rome's most magnificent squares, just two steps from the Pantheon and the Spanish steps. And in recent years, it has acquired special intrigue, thanks to author Dan Brown, who set his prequel to "The Da Vinci Code" in Rome. Robert Langdon's clues in "Angels and Demons" lead him to Piazza Navona at night and, believe it or not, into the fountain itself where he proceeds to wrestle a mysterious foe underwater. "Angels and Demons" tourists can now fully appreciate where Langdon fought for his life.

In this open-air museum of a city, Romans and tourists gravitate regularly to Piazza Navona's elongated open space on their city strolls just because it feels grand to walk through. It is also the heart of Christmas in Rome.

From the beginning of December through the Epiphany Jan. 6, the square is crowded with stands selling Christmas tree decorations, sweet foodstuffs, toys and the little figures for the Nativity scenes that Italians traditionally craft in their homes at Christmastime. There is an old-style Carousel too, adding to the fun of Romans with happy, squealing children in tow, on their traditional Christmas pilgrimage to Piazza Navona.

This year there is an extra treat to marvel at: the refurbished Bernini fountain, one of Rome's most-beloved outdoor monuments.

Eighteen restorers from Rome's Central Institute for Restoration have worked on the fountain intently for more than 6,000 hours in the course of two years, an endeavor that cost the city of Rome $800,000.

The Fountain of the Four Rivers is an allegorical representation (in human form) of the four great rivers on the four continents that were known in Bernini's time: the Danube in Europe, the Rio de la Plata in America, the Ganges in Asia and the Nile in Africa (with his head veiled to indicate that the river's source was still unknown at that time).

Each river-figure is perched precariously on top of a mass of sculpted rocks and grottoes. The Ancient Egyptian obelisk, which forms the centerpiece of the fountain, appears to be resting on a open cavity. There are sculpted animals too: a lion and a horse emerge from the base of the obelisk, and a dove, a serpent and a strange-looking armadillo inhabit the imaginary planet as well.