Exclusive: On Pakistan's Khyber Pass

Aug. 13, 2009— -- It is only about 30 miles from Peshawar, Pakistan, to Afghanistan's border where the Torkham Gate that divides the border is built. But it is 30 miles of the steepest, most white-knuckle driving you can imagine.

Think 2,000 feet up, on only dirt and gravel in some places, where guard rails are rare, and two or three trucks compete for space that can accommodate only one.

Throw in the fact that roadside bombs and mortars still can be a threat, militants still hide in the hillsides above you and you get the idea what kind of drive this is.

But this road is absolutely essential for bringing U.S. and NATO forces in Afghanistan essential food and military equipment. More than 80 percent of the supplies for the forces are brought in by road, and almost all of them on this road.

We are some of the first foreign journalists to follow a NATO convoy from Peshawar to Afghanistan since a series of deadly attacks that left the road impassable at times during the last few years.

Starting out our drive is a challenge in itself. Peshawar is one of the most dangerous cities in the world. Gun battles break out in the streets. Kidnappings and killings are commonplace, and the city's most expensive hotel, the Pearl Continental, was blown up by suicide bombers earlier this summer.

As you head out of Peshawar into the tribal areas, a faded brown sign warns that foreigners are not allowed.

We travel the route accompanied by the Frontier Corps, which is in charge of these tribal areas. A small pickup truck with armed men drives in front of us, another behind us. We often get separated on the crowded switchback roads.

This was the first time I was able to see firsthand the blown-up bridges and a mosque, reduced to a powdery rubble after it was blown up many months ago. Burned-out NATO vehicles from prior attacks are visible as well.

Those attacks destroyed tons and tons of NATO equipment, prompting Pakistan's Frontier Corps to launch a military campaign in December which has significantly reduced violence.