Great American Bites: Savory stone crabs at Joe's in Miami Beach
— -- The scene: It is often said that high turnover is very important to a restaurant's success in serving the freshest seafood. By that standard it is virtually impossible to beat Joe's Stone Crab. Ninety-nine years after it opened and immediately enthralled sun-seeking Miami Beach crowds, Joe's remains as popular as ever, serving 2,000 dinners on a busy night (and another 1,000 at lunch), with waits that can exceed two hours despite seating nearly 500 (no reservations). These crowds include many professional athletes, politicians and celebrities, and Joe's has served everyone from Joe DiMaggio to Al Capone, Frank Sinatra to Larry King. Joe's has grown, with a takeout storefront (Joe's To Go) now nearly as big as the original right next door, complete with fast food- style tables for those who need a quick fix. But for the full experience you have to eat in the actual restaurant, where diners are efficiently served by an army of about 70 tuxedoed waiters - most long-time veterans with good memories, no notepads and plenty of ordering advice.
As soon as you walk up, or more likely pull up to the busy valet-parking operation, you know you have arrived someplace notable. Joe's has a large Mediterranean-style fa?ade, and you enter through a sizeable metal gate and archway not unlike the portico at many sports stadiums. The first stop is the maître d's stand, where the good or bad news about the wait will be dispensed. To one side is a large barroom, with a massive rectangular wooden bar in the center ringed by booths. The main restaurant is sprawling, two large interconnected dining rooms with smaller rooms and private dining rooms off of it, with tables relatively close together and a high level of energy.
Joe's resembles a big, busy, masculine New York steakhouse like the Palm but infused with Miami Beach casualness. So while it is a frenetic, high-powered atmosphere, it is much lighter, brighter and more airy, with high ceilings, and patrons are as likely to be wearing shorts as suits - often at the same table. The crowd is hugely varied but always includes hardcore local regulars, Miami residents celebrating a birthday or special occasion, semi-regulars from around the country who make it a point to eat at Joe's whenever they come to Miami, and tourists from all over the world who have heard about the famous restaurant.
It never occurred to me before my recent visit, my third meal here, but I found out that some people mistake the place with Joe's Crab Shack, a national fast casual chain with over 100 locations, saying things like "Joe's? Oh yeah I ate at the one in Nashville." A true American restaurant icon, Joe's Stone Crab is not Joe's Crab Shack - not by a longshot.
Reason to visit: Stone crabs, crab cakes, fried chicken, Key lime pie
The food: There are restaurants that are institutions, that are experiences, and that serve excellent food, but few manage all three. Joe's is in this rare echelon.
