Beer Man: Pyramid's Curve Ball Blonde Ale is a wild pitch

— -- Beer Man is a weekly profile of beers from across the country and around the world. |-|This week: Curve Ball Blonde Ale|-| Pyramid Brewing Co., Portland, Wash. |-| pyramidbrew.com.

Pyramid Brewing is one of the older craft breweries in the nation, opening in 1984. Through the years I have especially enjoyed its Apricot and Snow Cap ales, and as recently as 2008 it was named top mid-size brewery in the United States at the Great American Beer Festival.

That's why Curve Ball threw me for a curve. It started out with some nice floral hops and a bit of biscuity malt in the aroma. The golden yellow body had nice clarity, which really became apparent with the quick disappearance of the head.

Curve Ball's label says it delivers a "crisp, clean flavor." I don't know if "clean" is supposed to mean "devoid of flavor." I would describe the flavor as nondescript, especially taking into consideration the watery body. There are hints of lemon, biscuit and grassy hops, but I had to really work at it for them to make much of an impression.

If Curve Ball is meant for people who generally drink American mass-produced lagers, it's acceptable -- there's nothing in it that would offend them except for those meager tidbits of extra flavor. For those who crave craft beer, it's lacking in body and complexity.

I know summer beers are supposed to have lighter body, but there's a big difference between a light body and a watery one. A summer beer also doesn't mean it can't have flavor. Lemonade doesn't taste "a little bit like lemon." A summer beer shouldn't have to taste "a little bit like malt and hops."

Personally, if I want something like a blonde ale for a hot day, I will immediately go for whatever Belgian blonde, witbier or pale ale is available -- there are dozens that are crisp, clean, refreshing and pack huge amounts of flavor, such as Leffe, Hoegaarden, Wittekerke, Corsendonk, Grimbergen and Orval, to name a few.

A much more refreshing Pyramid beer to drink during the summer is Apricot Ale, which I have reviewed in the past. It is crisp and clean but with a wonderful fresh, juicy apricot flavor and solid body.

Pyramid has wide distribution in the U.S.; Curve Ball is its summer seasonal and should be readily available.

Many beers are available only regionally. Check the brewer's website, which often contains information on product availability. Contact Todd Haefer at: beerman@postcrescent.com.