Changing the Fat in Chocolate

April 27, 2007 — -- A petition to change the way the Food and Drug Administration defines chocolate could have implications beyond the candy aisles, health experts suggest.

The petition, signed by players in the chocolate lobby and representatives from various sectors of the food industry, seeks changes in certain food standard definitions.

Among these suggested changes is one that would allow manufacturers to use vegetable oil rather than the current standard, cacao fat, also known as cocoa butter, to make chocolate.

The move, if it ever becomes reality, would strike at the heart of many chocolate aficionados, as many true connoisseurs have been known to choose their chocolate based on cacao content alone.

For the candy industry, on the other hand, the move could be a boon. The switch to vegetable oil could mean a sweeter profit margin for manufacturers who use less expensive vegetable oil in their products.

But some nutrition experts say that aside from commercial dividends, chocolate manufacturers may also tout the move away from cocoa butter, which is rich in saturated fatty acids, to give their products a healthier image.

This, said Lona Sandon, a spokesperson for the American Dietetic Association, would be an example of wishful thinking at best.

"By changing out the butter fat and replacing it with vegetable oil, all you've done is change the type of fat in the chocolate bar," Sandon, an assistant professor of clinical nutrition at UT Southwestern University, said.

"Sure, you may be taking out some of the saturated fat and replacing it with polyunsaturated and monounsaturated fat, but you still haven't created a health food here."

Sandon said that if the petition actually succeeds in changing the way the FDA labels chocolate, there is little question that the candy industry will put a healthy spin on the change.

"They absolutely will take advantage of that," she said. "You'll see 'low saturated fat' candy bars on the market."