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Bolivia's Aymara torn over their man Evo as he clings to power

Morales has helped lift many out of poverty since he came to office.

October 18, 2019, 2:16 PM

Bolivian leader Evo Morales came to power in 2006 with a pledge to champion marginalized indigenous groups including his own important Andean tribe the Aymara, which helped carry him to the presidency.

Morales, often known simply as "Evo," has helped lift many out of poverty since he came to office, and even changed the country's name to the Plurinational State of Bolivia to honor its diverse ethnic groups long treated as second-class citizens.

PHOTO: Members of a morenada dance fraternity shoot a music video at a cottage in the village of Lipari, on the outskirts of La Paz, Bolivia December 11, 2016.
Members of a morenada dance fraternity shoot a music video at a cottage in the village of Lipari, on the outskirts of La Paz, Bolivia December 11, 2016.
Manuel Seoane/Reuters

But the left-leaning former coca farmer has faced a rising tide of dissatisfaction, even among the indigenous groups he has most visibly supported, as he bids for an unprecedented and contentious fourth term in elections on Sunday.

Most polls show his main rival, Carlos Mesa, closing the gap on Morales, posing the fiercest electoral challenge yet to Latin America's longest continuous standing leader.

PHOTO: A view shows some La Paz city neighbourhoods as seen from El Alto, Bolivia October 3, 2019.
A view shows some La Paz city neighbourhoods as seen from El Alto, Bolivia October 3, 2019.
Manuel Seoane/Reuters

Morales, often seen clad in colorfully embroidered alpaca wool suits, is counting on the backing of Bolivia's more than 4 million indigenous people as he looks to extend his presidency to a potential 19 years -- in defiance of term limits and a local referendum in 2016 that voted against him running.

However, many of the Aymara are split over Morales. Allegations of cronyism and lavish projects -- including a $34 million, 28-floor presidential palace in La Paz -- have created a sense of unease about him losing touch with the working people.

PHOTO: A cholita walks through a newly opened gallery in the 16 de Julio fair in El Alto, Bolivia, October 3, 2019. The 16 de Julio fair is one of the biggest open street markets in the world, with hundreds of street stores and galleries.
A cholita walks through a newly opened gallery in the 16 de Julio fair in El Alto, Bolivia, October 3, 2019. The 16 de Julio fair is one of the biggest open street markets in the world, with hundreds of street stores and galleries.
Manuel Seoane/Reuters

"Indigenous ideologies haven't really been translated to politics," said Yolanda Mamani, 34, an Aymara radio presenter with a popular show "Big Mouth Chola," a reference to the indigenous women often clad in iconic wide dresses and bowler hats who have gained more prominence under Morales.

Mamani, who was born in the region around high-altitude Lake Titicaca and migrated to the city of El Alto near capital La Paz when she was 9 years old, said she felt the president's image was more an act than real substance.

PHOTO: Aymara journalist and media producer Sonia Quispe, 27, presents the early morning news show Yatiyawi in La Paz, Bolivia August 30, 2019.
Aymara journalist and media producer Sonia Quispe, 27, presents the early morning news show Yatiyawi in La Paz, Bolivia August 30, 2019. Yatiyawi is the first TV news show spoken in Aymaran that is broadcast internationally. "In these 13 years of Evo Morales government I believe the most humble people have benefited, the farmers that live off the land," Quispe said, adding that while Evo wasn't perfect, only he could keep driving the process of change in the country. "There are many problems and issues to be fixed but I believe in him."
Manuel Seoane/Reuters

"It's like a fashion show of folklore, as if the indigenous were just clothing," she said

Sonia Quispe, 27, a media producer who speaks and writes Aymara dialect, said she felt differently.

"In these 13 years of Evo Morales government I believe the most humble people have benefited, the farmers that live off the land," she said, adding that while Morales wasn't perfect, only he could keep driving the process of change in the country.

PHOTO: Members of a morenada fraternity perform in front of a colourful events salon, locally known as "cholet", during the Gran Poder Fiesta in La Paz, Bolivia May 14, 2017.
Members of a morenada fraternity perform in front of a colourful events salon, locally known as "cholet", during the Gran Poder Fiesta in La Paz, Bolivia May 14, 2017. The Gran Poder Fiesta is one of the biggest celebrations in the city which gathers thousands of dancers together.
Manuel Seoane/Reuters

"There are many problems and issues to be fixed but I believe in him," she said.

One recent issue that has hurt Morales has been forest fires that raged though the farm-belt region of Santa Cruz. Morales closed his election campaign out there on Tuesday, and violent clashes broke out between protesters and police.

PHOTO: A traditional cholita observes her young daughter getting ready to dance at a preste celebration in La Paz, Bolivia, September 16, 2017.
A traditional cholita observes her young daughter getting ready to dance at a preste celebration in La Paz, Bolivia, September 16, 2017.
Manuel Seoane/Reuters

In her La Paz office, lawmaker Mercedes Marquez spoke highly of Morales despite some of the headwinds he has faced. She said he had championed the rights of indigenous people after years of repression and humiliation.

The 60-year-old member of Congress, who worked as a seamstress and trader before getting into politics, pointed to steady economic growth under Morales, one of the most reliable in a volatile region, helped by a natural resource boom.

PHOTO: Aymara congress member Mercedes Marquez, 60, works in her office in La Paz, Bolivia September 3, 2019.
Aymara congress member Mercedes Marquez, 60, works in her office in La Paz, Bolivia September 3, 2019. "We have gas at home, modern educational units, paved streets, football pitches, aid for children, adults and mothers, a new health care system, zero illiteracy, a fight against poverty, cable cars, and modern markets," Marquez said. "I support the re-election of Evo Morales and (vice president) Alvaro Garcia Linera. If not them, then whom?"
Manuel Seoane/Reuters

"We have gas at home, modern educational units, paved streets, football pitches, aid for children, adults and mothers, a new health care system, zero illiteracy, a fight against poverty, cable cars and modern markets," she said.

"I support the reelection of Evo Morales and (vice president) Álvaro García Linera. If not them, then whom?"

PHOTO: Fraternity guests and dancers wait to receive members of the Poderosa Illimani fraternity who organised the preste celebrations, outside the gates of Iglesia Jesus del Gran Poder Church in La Paz, Bolivia October 22, 2017.
Fraternity guests and dancers wait to receive members of the Poderosa Illimani fraternity who organised the preste celebrations, outside the gates of Iglesia Jesus del Gran Poder Church in La Paz, Bolivia October 22, 2017.
Manuel Seoane/Reuters

In his colorful events salon, venues locally known as "cholet," Jhonny Segales, said the success of most Aymara people was down to hard work and not any help they got from Morales.

PHOTO: Aymara journalist and media producer Sonia Quispe, 27, washes lettuce on a visit to her hometown in Vilaque, a farmers community located on the outskirts of El Alto, Bolivia August 31, 2019.
Aymara journalist and media producer Sonia Quispe, 27, washes lettuce on a visit to her hometown in Vilaque, a farmers community located on the outskirts of El Alto, Bolivia August 31, 2019. "In these 13 years of Evo Morales government I believe the most humble people have benefited, the farmers that live off the land," she said, adding that while Evo wasn't perfect, only he could keep driving the process of change in the country. "There are many problems and issues to be fixed but I believe in him," she said.
Manuel Seoane/Reuters

"People here are like that, always working, gathering, saving, this is the spirit we have," said Segales, wearing a smartly tailored brown jacket and on-and-off his phone on business calls.

"This government hits our growth with very unequal tax policies," said Segales, who though disillusioned by the government said it had started well when Morales first came to power.

PHOTO: Members of a morenada dance fraternity shoot a music video at a cottage in the village of Lipari, on the outskirts of La Paz, Bolivia December 11, 2016.
Members of a morenada dance fraternity shoot a music video at a cottage in the village of Lipari, on the outskirts of La Paz, Bolivia December 11, 2016.
Manuel Seoane/Reuters

"How can they say they rule for the poor but spend millions on luxury? When they came to power in the first elections they did good things but I see now it was only to get our sympathy," he said.

"This government is not for all people or for the poor as they say, but only really for the people who support it."

PHOTO: Dancers from a preste celebration walk through Eloy Salmon Street in Zona Gran Poder, La Paz, Bolivia January 14, 2018.
Dancers from a preste celebration walk through Eloy Salmon Street in Zona Gran Poder, La Paz, Bolivia January 14, 2018.
Manuel Seoane/Reuters