What Goes Into the Best Lobster Roll

— -- What’s summer without a little lobster? As the unofficial sandwich of summer, lobster rolls have been a mainstay in the New England food scene for decades. But luckily, you no longer have to travel to Maine to get a taste of New England summer.

Lobster shacks have recently popped up all over the U.S., and in almost every state you’ll find the lobster roll is done with a slight twist. Ringing up at over $25 per sandwich at some locations, it may be difficult to decide which roll is worth your dough.

This month, Tasting Table hosted its sixth annual Lobster Rumble, where 25 contenders competed in New York City for bragging rights to the best lobster roll.

Although a seemingly simple dish, the competitors’ offerings varied dramatically. Each chef added their special touch in an attempt to win the coveted prize of the Golden Claw and be voted fan favorite by the 2,000 attendees.

When creating a lobster roll, the first decision is which style of roll to make. Some chefs prepare theirs with cold lobster and mayo in what is referred to as “Maine style.” Other chefs prefer “Connecticut Style,” with the lobster doused in warm butter.

The next culinary choice is the roll. The Red Hook Lobster Pound in Brooklyn, New York, uses a traditional roll known as a top split bun. The roll is shaved on the sides and toasted with butter. “Essentially, it’s the Wonder Bread of Maine,” said owner Susan Povich.

Other restaurants opt for a more diverse route with hamburger buns, ciabatta rolls, and even fresh Cuban bread.

As far as what’s inside the sandwich, Maine Lobster is a staple in all. But the type of lobster meat used offers up a great debate. Some chefs use the whole lobster, while other competitors like executive chef Brandon Blethen of Robert’s Maine Grill in Kittery, Maine, feel the tail “really takes away from the overall experience.”

Two undisputed lobster roll ingredients are mayonnaise and butter. However, the owner of Ed’s Lobster Bar in New York City, Ed McFarland, stressed, “Always go light on the mayo, so the lobster is the star of the show."

And perhaps there is something to be said for simplicity. While many of the contestants use unique ingredients like bacon, curry or micro celery, the winner of the 2015 Lobster Rumble was a simple, dressed down roll from The Clam Shack in Kennebunkport, Maine.

Owner Steve Kingston said he believes the freshness of his lobster is what helped him win the competition.

“All of these chefs are putting fancy stuff in it," he said. "Just go back to the basics.”