Austin's Got More Than Music

June 3 -- Austin, Texas, is one of the small cities that proves the old maxim: Good things don't always come in the biggest, fanciest packages.

"Batman would feel right at home here," nine-year-old Connor declared to his mom, Diane, who was affixing an "Ask Me About Bats!" button to his T-shirt. But who needs a guy in a black rubber suit when you've got the real thing?

Austin is home to the largest urban bat colony in North America. From March to October, hundreds of thousands of Mexican free-tailed bats swoop into the sky to feast on insects. When the bats come out, appearing like a poof of magician's smoke in the twilight, all eyes look skyward.

Alas, during our last visit, the bats didn't come out to play (we'd seen a gazillion of 'em the summer before), so we flitted around town looking for other amusements.

Most people think of Austin as a grown-up playground, due to its reputation as a live-music mecca. Guess what? We discovered super parks, swimming holes and a city that revels in its role as the rowdy little sibling among Texas towns.

Things to Know

Who Knew?… that Austinites are crazy for disk golf. Check out the action at Pease Park (512-499-6700), where you'll also find good fossil hunting along the creek bed. Admire your finds at the park; you're not allowed to take 'em away.

Don't Leave Home Without… your swimsuits. Austin kids and visiting families beat the heat at Barton Springs (512-476-9044), a 1,000-foot-long, 68-degree spring-fed natural pool.

Don't Leave Town Without… riding the Zilker Zephyr, the train ride at Zilker Park (512-499-6700), Austin's most popular outdoor hangout. Rainy day? Swap the train ride for the driver's seat of a real ambulance at Austin's Children's Museum (512-472-2494).

Clean-Plate Club. Not only is the food tasty at the Shoreline Grill (512-477-3300), but the views are pure Addams Family. On warm nights, you can watch the bats fly from their roost under the Congress Avenue Bridge. Devour your dinner (kids love the fried-shrimp plate) while the bats chow down on insects.