EXCERPT: The Tuff Chix Guide to Easy Home Improvement

Fixing the Little Broken Things ...

Introduction

Let's Get Tuff!

Hello, ladies ... and gentlemen. This is a book every woman needs around the house: a guide to easy home improvement and repairs that can save you hundreds, even thousands, of dollars. This is your guide to a better home and a better you. You are strong, independent and Tuff!

What Type Are You?

There are two types of people out there: the DIY (do it yourself) type and the HAP (hire a professional) type. My goal is to turn you into the TC (Tuff Chix) type, one who fixes things or hires a professional because she wants to, not because she has to. This book will give you the knowledge you need to make that decision.

What to Know Before You Call a Pro

I'll give you the know-how and teach you the criteria to use to avoid getting ripped off. You will have the confidence to hire the right professional for each job and the knowledge to make informed inquiries before you hire.

You Make the Decision

Review the project, and assess the Tuff Meter and the estimated time to complete the project. Then look at the alternative: how much it would cost to hire a professional to do it?

In some instances, you will want to tackle the project yourself. In others, it may be worth it to hire someone else, but if you do, at least you will know how much money you should be charged, how long it should take to complete the project, and how to get exactly what you paid (and asked) for.

Some subjects in this book will seem advanced, and some very elementary. The advanced projects (and some tools) will generally be something of a stretch and may not be in your comfort zone; however, I want you to be familiar with them. This book is about knowledge, and the more knowledge you have, the more power you have. I want you to be able to walk into any hardware store or onto any job site (which includes your own garage) and know what you are talking about.

My Story

Hi, everyone! If you choose to skip this section, I won't be offended, but I urge you to finish reading this paragraph. All you need to know is don't be afraid. You are tougher than you think, and you can successfully tackle every project in this book. You don't have to wait for someone else to do it, and you don't have to pay someone else to do it. You can do it yourself!

Don't be afraid to break a "nail." There was a time when I was intimidated and overwhelmed by things that needed fixing, yet didn't want to rely on someone else to fix them for me. Home improvement is not difficult; you just need know what to do. And even if you screw up, you can always fix your mistakes. My biggest hurdle was worrying too much. What if I did it wrong? What if I messed up? Well, guess what? You can mess up. I did! And you will too. I've learned so much by messing up, but the biggest thing I learned is that a mistake can always be fixed.

I remember learning how to put up drywall. It was in 1999, and I was dating a former construction worker (let's face it ladies, a buff man in a tool belt ... yum). I was renting a two-bedroom house with two other girls. The home had a large dining room that we thought would be perfect as a third bedroom. I moved my belongings into the room and put up a folding screen, but soon realized I needed more privacy. We asked the owner if we could add double French doors to enclose it. She said yes, with one condition: that prehung French doors would fit in the opening exactly. We measured the opening and discovered that it was fourteen inches short of a perfect fit. What to do? I needed the privacy and this place was all we could afford, so moving was not an option. We had to make the doors fit. My crafty man had an idea: why not extend the wall by fourteen inches? I remember thinking that this was impossible, and that we'd never be able to do it ourselves. I was ready to throw in the towel, but with his reassurance, we went to the hardware store, purchased the materials, and got to work. Since I was positive this project could not be done, I wanted to be there every step of the way to witness the demise of his clever plan. We bought two-by-fours, drywall, screws, nails, drywall mud, and various other items that were so foreign to me at the time, they may as well have been creatures from another planet. At one point in the project, he handed me a shiny tool that looked something like a spatula with white toothpaste-type goop on it. My first inclination was to run the other way screaming, but instead he showed me how to apply the goop to the wall and how to smooth it out. I was shocked -- it was so easy! I was drywalling! Yes, it took some finesse to get it smooth, but overall, it was simple. And the more times I tried, the better I became. Even when I messed up and left a big bump on the wall, it was easy to sand it down and start over. And talk about feeling empowered -- I felt like I could do anything. I found myself spending every spare moment asking if I could help with his other projects. Soon I had learned the basics of drywalling, roofing, tiling, and framing. With those limited skills under my tool belt, I felt like I could take on the world. Overdramatic? Maybe. But it felt good to know that I could make my own home improvements if I wanted to and no longer had to rely on someone else.

But that wasn't really the beginning. I'll have to take you back a few years to really show you how I became a Tuff Chick.

I have loved real estate since I was a little girl, although at the time, my real estate expertise was restricted to playing with dollhouses, building card houses, and touring model homes with my mom. When I was six, I had a life-size dollhouse in my bedroom. My mom tells the story of how I removed all the dolls from the dollhouse and began making furniture and redecorating. I also had a smaller scale dollhouse that I played with, and it too would receive regular makeovers. Anyway, at the time I was always more focused on the furniture and providing a comfortable environment for my cat than playing with any of the actual dolls.

Most people ask if I learned my craft from my father. Actually, my dad is a racecar driver, and although he can rebuild an engine with his eyes closed, I'm not sure he's ever picked up a hammer. And my mom? She is an excellent teacher, a whiz at investing, and simply an amazing person, but to her, fixing up the house meant keeping it spotless. My brother? Michael is one of my best friends, a professor, and a counselor who I would happily go to for personal advice, but definitely not for advice around the house.

I basically learned everything I know about home improvement on my own by picking up a little here and there over the years. To fill in the gaps (and there were many gaps), I bought how-to books. I bought book after book after book until I found sections that worked for me. Most of the books I found, however, were geared toward men who already knew about home improvement. They assumed that you had all the tools and knew all the terms to make it happen. Most of the books read like sleep-inducing manuals with no illustrations. I'm very visual, and I found it difficult to simply read directions -- I needed to see the directions in action. And I desperately needed a "homegirl" dictionary. These books would throw out names of tools as if I was supposed to know what the heck they were talking about -- and most of the time I had no idea. Even now, with years of experience, I still refer to some tools as "the sanding thingy" or "the fun-shape cutter outer" or "the corner edger." I feel it's perfectly fine if you don't know the official names -- as long as you get the job done. I have written this book for all of you women (and men) who feel like I did. This is the book I wished I'd had during all those years when I was learning: one filled with descriptions, illustrations, a "homegirl" dictionary, and all you need to make you sound like you know what you are talking about at your local home-improvement store.

Okay, back to the life story. I attended Catholic school for twelve years, and then the University of California at Santa Barbara, where I studied psychology, theology, sunbathing, and beach living -- all very important subjects. Throughout my school career, I loved learning, loved building businesses, and loved doing arts and crafts. (These will all come to be important later in the story.)

In 1994, my career took me out of the country. I worked in sales and marketing for four years, and after too many international flights and business dinners, I decided that was enough for me. I wanted to be successful and I wanted to have wealth. If traveling the world taught me anything, it was that most people either made their wealth (or held their wealth) in real estate. And since I wanted to own my own real estate, and still loved visiting model homes, I knew that real estate was the business for me. I decided that I'd better start making more money and saving it so that I could buy my first property and jump in the game.

In 2001, I became an apartment manager. My main motivation? Living for free. It did, however, serve another purpose: I could save money to buy my first property and learn about the real-estate business at the same time. I simultaneously started a wedding-coordinating business, and I worked from home while managing the apartments. It was an ideal situation. My goal was to save $25,000 my first year, buy a property, fix it up, and rent or sell it. In February 2002, a friend handed me a book that changed my life. It was called Real Estate Riches. When I say it changed my life, I mean it! I was so inspired by the teachings of Dolf de Roos and Robert Kiyosaki. I looked up to these great men and was inspired by the path they took throughout their lives, and how real estate shaped their futures. That book so motivated me that within four months I raised $250,000 from private investors to start my real-estate business. I purchased fourteen homes in three months. I soon realized, however, that although I had raised enough money to buy the homes, I had no money to hire someone to refurbish them. So, guess who did the work? Me -- and whoever I could enlist to help me. I relied on all the books I had bought, to do everything from fix holes in walls to electrical rewiring and installing appliances. Fortunately, much of the work (like painting), was easy. I loved it! Well, I didn't love the actual physical labor, but I did love the feeling of accomplishment I got at the end of a project from knowing I had done it all. I was very proud of the work I did. Plus, the business was doing quite well. It was a rent-to-own program that helped people purchase their first homes. Not only was I making a more than sufficient income, I was helping people at the same time, which felt even better than the money in my pocket.

In the summer of 2003, I participated in a cable television show called Monster House. My motivation? To win free tools so I could fix up more homes. I appeared on the Christmas episode and went on my merry way with about four grand in new tools. I thought I had hit the jackpot. After the episode aired, I received a call from another show, Extreme Makeover: Home Edition. The casting agent, Andy, asked me to come down for an interview. Since the show had never aired, my question for him was, "Well, what do you win?" After a little chuckle, he explained that it didn't work like that.

I went to the interview and was promptly called back. Since I had never really worked in television before, I didn't really know what a callback meant, except that I had to drive back down to Hollywood. I was told that I needed to construct something in front of them. They instructed me to bring all the materials and tools I would need, and said that I would be given one half hour to build something that would "wow" them -- like a shelving unit or window box.

Well, since the thought of a shelving unit or window box didn't knock my socks off, I racked the old brain to come up with something clever. I decided to make a jack-in-the-box out of wood. I found an old toy at a secondhand store and took it apart to utilize the music apparatus. I replaced the creepy little clown head with a little house I had carved out of Styrofoam. I cut the "Extreme Makeover: Home Edition" logo out of Andy's business card and glued it to the little house. Since the new pine lid was much heavier than a plastic lid, I used parts from a rattrap for the spring. I cut a piece of the metal strap from my water heater to use as the clasp. I used the guts of the old toy for the music and latch release. I practiced three times before I headed down to Hollywood. When I arrived, I unloaded all my tools and materials and went to work. I finished in forty-two minutes and crossed my fingers as I cranked the little handle and the "da dee da dee da deedley dee" music played. I came to the "pop goes the weasel" point, and, to my excitement, my little house popped out successfully. Yippee! I gathered my things and left, wondering if they would ever call.

On my way out, I saw the next candidate -- a strapping, muscle-packed carpenter with enough wood to construct a 4,000-square-foot home. I thought I was doomed. There was no way they'd pick me over this handsome devil. Days later, on my way to fix up one of my properties, Andy called with good news. He asked if he could send the contract over to "my people." Since I was "my people," I said sure, and gave him my personal fax number. I believed I was doing all of this for one episode, but as it turned out ABC sent over a six-year contract. Yeehaw!

I remember showing up for my first show, a little nervous, but very excited. Although I didn't know much about acting, I did know how to work, so I threw myself into the job. I remember calling my cousin Jaime, a cosmetologist in Illinois, while I painted into the night. I asked her to pack her bags and come out to California to help me. She nervously replied "I've never worked construction. I cut hair -- not wood!" But what I knew about Jaime was that she is a hard worker and makes a mean scrapbook. "Home improvement is just big arts and crafts," I assured her. "We made things out of Popsicle sticks when we were little -- this is the same concept, just on a bigger scale." With that persuasion, she hopped the next flight -- and has assisted me on almost every show since. (If you watch closely, you can see her in the background of almost all of the shots in my workplace.) Ironically, Jaime went searching for proper work attire and encountered the same problem in the Midwest that I had here on the West Coast: nothing for women! In the two years prior to joining the show, I had searched for tool belts, work boots, work gloves, and home-improvement books designed for women. I searched and searched. At first, I thought I must be part of a very small minority of women in construction, which is not the case at all. I discovered that in America there are over one million registered women in construction, and that doesn't even include the weekend warriors who dabble a bit or women who fix up their home on a daily basis. It was then that we decided to create Tuff Chix, Inc., providing work wear, gear, and instructional assistance for women. Our motto was simple: "Who says girls can't be tough? (And why not be cute at the same time?)"

Why the Pink?

I had entered into a "man's" world when I entered construction, and although I typically looked like one of the guys while working on my own rental properties, I didn't want to look that way on national television. I wanted to stand out as a strong and capable woman displaying my skills. I decided to wear the least masculine color, which I figured was pink!

Why This Book?

That brings us to today, and why you are reading this book. This book is designed for anyone who wants to improve their surroundings, in ways small or large. It's everything I wish I'd had when I started. It's the essential tool you need to create something great.

You don't have to read the book from cover to cover. Use it as your road map. This book is designed to make your life easier, save you a little money, and give you the tools you need to take care of yourself and your home.

Tuff Tips for Success

1. Think big, start small: Be realistic. Don't bite off more than you can chew. Divide larger projects into several miniprojects. Identify your own limitations ahead of time to avoid frustration. Consider this: If you start and complete a small project, it will give you the encouragement and the self-confidence to tackle larger projects. On the other hand, if you start a project that is too big, you may get frustrated and abandon it, leaving you feeling unfulfilled and discouraged.

2. Safety first: Always be safe -- even if you are fixing something "really quick." Wear the proper attire (nothing baggy), safety glasses, gloves, etc. Keep children and pets away from work areas. Follow safety instructions for the tools and materials you are using. Take your time and don't rush. Many accidents occur because of haste. Always keep a phone with emergency numbers handy in the event of an accident. And clean up as you go so that unneeded tools don't become the reason why you trip and fall.

3. Ask questions: Never be afraid to ask questions. If you find that you are dealing with someone who is snooty or not giving you the answers you seek, move on until you find someone who will. When I first started remodeling homes, I noticed that many customer-service people in hardware stores either did not think I was serious or gave me the "girl" answer. Some, I noticed, were just collecting a paycheck and really didn't know the answers to my questions. Instead of getting mad, I excused myself politely and kept asking my questions to other people until I received the answer I was after. Sometimes, it turned out that other customers were the most helpful.

4. Be prepared: Be sure you have all the materials and tools you will need. If you are going to disassemble something, take a picture or two for reference later when you need to put it back together again. Take a list to the hardware store. Nothing is more frustrating than going to the store, coming back and getting started, and realizing that you forgot a few things and have to waste time going back again.

5. Best tools: When I invest in a good tool, regardless of whether I am buying or renting, it helps propel me toward success. I once sanded wood floors in my living room. They dated from 1939, were made of Douglas fir, and had been covered with wall-to-wall linoleum for decades, which left a thin, velvet-like covering stuck to the wood. I went to my local hardware store to rent a floor sander and was given the wrong one. After two weeks of sanding, I went back to the rental place and asked for a stronger machine. They finally allowed me to rent a belt sander, after I begged and persuaded them. They even made me sign a waiver, saying that I was likely to ruin my floors with such a strong tool. I took it home and was able to complete the project that night. If I had been given the proper sander at the beginning, it would have saved me time and the cost of a two-week rental.

6. Measure twice, cut once: Always measure twice, whether it's your first project or five-hundredth project. Not measuring properly is the main reason you hear curse words out on the job site.

7. Don't cut corners: There have been so many times when I've thought I could skip a step or hurry something along -- and it just resulted in spending more time and more money. So follow instructions ... always!

8. Know your limitations and know when to stop: When you are sleepy or exhausted, you are more apt to slip up and will more than likely make costly or even devastating mistakes that may even result in injury. Take breaks throughout the project to reenergize.

9. Finish the job: Don't give up. Do whatever you need to do to finish the job while your tools are still out (unless you're tired, then please refer to number eight above). If you can't finish that night, finish first thing in the morning. Don't let a lot of time go by before you go back to the project. If you do, most likely the project will sit for months in its "almost done" state. Make the extra push to get it done!

10. Use your number one tool -- your brain: Common sense is your best friend when fixing things around the home. Be smart every step of the way. If it feels wrong or unstable, it probably is. Listen to your intuition.

Getting to Know Your House

We are all capable of accomplishing anything we put our minds to. Part of the problem with home improvement stems from being unfamiliar with your home. Familiarity makes it easier to understand, and therefore, to conquer. So, let's go for a tour -- take a few moments to examine your home, much like you would your outfit before going out on a date. Look around your house: Ever wonder what those pipes are for? Where they go? How about wiring? I want you to know your house, so if anything ever does go wrong, you will know exactly how to pinpoint the problem. Plus, a careful walk through your home will help prevent potential problems that may arise. Be observant, to prevent future catastrophes. Need help getting started? Take a look below.

As you go through this list, jot down things that need your attention or need a little repair.

Pipes There are many types of pipes in your own home. (See the pipe chart, pp. 194–195.) It's a good idea to inspect all the pipes in your home, whether located under sinks, under the house, or outdoors. Check for leaks by running your hand along them to see if they're moist and looking below them for puddles or slight discoloration.

Electrical Inspect all the outlets in your home. Remove the cover plates and look for any inconsistencies. Inspect all accessible exposed wiring to be sure it's in good shape. Look for frayed wires or small areas in the wiring that may have lost the plastic coating. Be sure all outlets located near sinks are protected with a GFCI (ground-fault circuit interrupter) switch. Locate your home's fuse box and familiarize yourself with the main switch and all the individual fuses. I think one of the most important things a person should know about her own home is where the fuse box is and how to reset a fuse once it's popped. It can be very frustrating when the power is out to be searching around with a candle or flashlight, unsure of where the main switch is. Locating it before there is a problem will help relieve stress when a problem does arise.

Electrical cords I intentionally made this heading separate from electrical wiring because it is so very important and is the cause of most household fires. Inspect all electrical cords, including those located behind the television, computer, stereo, lamps, and anything else you plug in. Most house fires occur because of loose or faulty wires. Check to make sure that each cord is in good shape -- not chewed away by little critters or suffering from old age. Be sure that the circuit is not overloaded. This is most likely to occur around your television and stereo equipment, where it looks like a sea of tangled cords. (See "Fire Prevention," p. 225.)

Molding and baseboards Inspect all molding found near the floor and around doorjambs and window jambs. Make sure it is all in good shape (not rotting or loose). Note any spots that may need replacing or a new coat of paint.

Weather stripping Weather stripping is the lining, usually foam or rubber, around your doors that prevents drafts and leaks from entering your home. Check to make sure that it is not rotting, dry, cracked, or flaking and that it is securely in place. Even if it appears to be in good shape, it still may not be laid correctly. Here is a simple way to check for drafts. Wait until a windy day and hold a tissue up to the doorjamb. If the tissue moves, it's time to replace the weather stripping. This will also keep eight-legged creatures from obtaining easy access. That right there is my motivation for good weather stripping in my home -- keeping spiders out! (See p. 112.)

Windows Inspect all windows, including sliding glass doors and small bathroom windows. Be sure each one closes and slides properly, that each lock is in working order to ensure safety, and that there is no draft coming through any part of the window or sill. This can save you hundreds of dollars a year on your heating and air-conditioning costs.

Fireplace Inspect your fireplace. If you've recently used your fireplace, remember that ashes can smolder for up to two weeks. You can clean up the ashes if you wear the proper safety equipment. Store the ashes in a covered steel container away from the house and away from any combustibles for about two weeks. That should give the ashes ample time to cool properly. Then simply throw them in the trash. Have your fireplace professionally inspected and cleaned annually. This will keep it free of debris and reduce the risk of unwanted fire.

Sinks Inspect all the sinks in your house, including kitchen, bathrooms, and laundry room. Look around the sink and the fixtures to ensure that everything is intact and securely fastened. Use your hand to feel around the perimeter of the sink, fixtures, and pipes to ensure that all are free of moisture. Check the water pressure. Is it too high or too low?

Gas and water mains Begin by locating your gas main and water mains. Label each main clearly. Familiarize yourself with how to shut off electrical, water, and fuel supplies to your home. This way, if you are ever in a situation where you must react quickly, you will know what to do. You can save the panicking for more important things.

Kitchen Take a moment to survey your kitchen. You may visit your kitchen every day, but I'm asking you to look at it in a different light. Inspect all of the countertop appliances, assuring that the cords are in good condition and that each appliance is working correctly. Locate the gas or electrical connection to the oven and/or stovetop. Be sure that those lines are in good shape. Inspect the refrigerator. Make sure that it has not accumulated excess dust around, above, or underneath it. Check your overhead ventilation systems to ensure that they are working correctly and are not clogged. Look at your lighting fixtures. Make sure all are clean and that each bulb is securely connected. Also, make sure the electrical outlet(s) near the sink are protected with a GFCI switch.

Flooring Walk through your home and inspect the flooring. Begin with the carpet. Is the pad still good? Are there any frayed, discolored, or worn areas in need of repair? Check where the carpet joins other flooring. This is an area where staples often begin to come through the carpet -- a very painful step that can be avoided. Now look at the tile in your home. Are there any loose or broken tiles in need of repair? How does the grout look? Is it in need of cleaning or repair? Inspect vinyl flooring for areas that may be damaged or coming loose. This is a common problem with vinyl flooring in bathrooms and kitchens, especially around sinks, bathtubs, and toilets. Be sure to look for signs of mold on the floor. If you discover loose areas, these should be repaired immediately. This simple repair will prevent mold and decay in the future.

Ceilings Be careful not to get dizzy, but do take some time to look at all the ceilings in your home, including in bedrooms, hallways, bathrooms, entryways, living areas, dining room, laundry, garage, etc. Look for cracks or discoloration. If you discover any discoloration, it may be the sign of a bigger problem, such as water leakage somewhere in the roof or attic. You will need to investigate further to determine the source of the problem. For discoloration or stains on the ceiling, here's a quick tip: add bleach (and water) to a spray bottle and lightly mist the ceiling. This will take care of the stain, but you need to take care of the problem.

Phone jacks Inspect every phone jack in the house. Remember to look behind beds and appliances. Be sure to check for loose cover plates and any loose or exposed wires.

Bathroom Bathrooms are the busiest rooms in the house and can be the source of many problems. Leaks, moisture, and electrical cords can be a disastrous combination. Take a good look at each bathroom in your home. Be sure that sinks, fixtures, and pipes are clean and dry. Ensure that the flooring is in good shape. Check in corners or wet areas near the toilet and tub to see if it is peeling up. Make sure the shower curtain is in good shape and free of mold, and that the shower rod is secure and sturdy. If you have shower doors, make sure they are free of mildew and mold, and that they slide easily and are in good condition. Inspect your tub or tile enclosure to see that it is dry, with no mold or mildew buildup. Inspect the caulking. Is it in good condition? Is it moldy, dark, or peeling? Inspect the ventilation system. Is it clean and in good working order? Test the water pressure in all fixtures, including the sink and the tub or shower. Inspect the light switches and electrical outlets. Electrical outlets near a sink must be protected with a GFCI switch. Inspect the grout around the tile for discoloration and chipping. Double-check the cords on appliances. Are they in good working condition? Are you guilty of overloading a circuit (hair dryer, curling iron, flat iron, electric toothbrush, etc.) when getting ready? Inspect the light fixture to be sure it's clean, it's in good working condition, and that the bulbs are secure.

Bedroom You are in this room every day, but do you really take the time to notice possible hazards? Inspect the carpet, especially in the corners and where it meets other flooring. Is it worn or frayed? Is there any discoloration? This could be a sign of unwanted moisture. Check the electrical outlets and light switches. Do you have dimmer switches? Are they working properly? Check all electrical cords, including alarm clocks, lamps, television, stereo, etc. Check closet walls for discoloration, leaking, or moisture. Assure that the bar in the closet is sturdy and not overloaded. Make sure closet doors are hung correctly and slide properly. Check that you have a smoke detector in the room and that it is in good working order with a good battery. Do you have a ceiling fan? Make sure it works correctly and is clean. Ceiling fans can get off balance if they are not cleaned on a regular basis. Check to make sure that all pictures are stable and secure. Inspect your ceilings for cracks or discoloration.

Laundry room This room may seem squeaky clean to you, however, it is the site of most major flooding incidents and household fires, according to fire- and water-damage restoration companies. There are two main causes: supply lines and dryer ducts. Supply lines, which are little hoses that attach the water lines to the back of the washing machine (see p. 191). Look to make sure that the lines appear to be in good condition and are free of corrosion or rotting. Use your hand to make sure there are no pressure bubbles in the back of the hose and that it feels dry and free of corrosion. Allow me to explain why these supply lines are potentially dangerous. They are attached to water pipes that are on at all times, thus the water pressure is fierce and continuous. One line connects your washing machine to the hot water, and the other connects it to the cold water. If one of these supply lines should break, crack, or burst, water will not simply drip out -- it will rush out. This typically happens while you are at work or on vacation. I've heard horror stories of people coming home to a foot of water, all because of one of these little babies. You would think something this important would be expensive and hard to switch out, right? On the contrary. Each hose is about twelve dollars and can be replaced in just a few minutes. Also, consider installing a pan underneath your washing machine to catch excess water. Check your dryer duct to ensure that it is free of lint or other combustible materials. Clean out the lint screen and areas surrounding your dryer often. Keep all storage areas neat, clean, and dry. Make sure that articles of clothing have not fallen behind the washing machine or dryer -- they can be potential fire hazards.

Attic Although attic spaces may be small and kind of creepy, you must get up there and look around at least once a year. Check to make sure your insulation is in good condition and has not been displaced anywhere. Check for leaks or discoloration of the wood or roof. To be sure the venting is working, look through the vents and check for clogs. Bad ventilation in attics not only increases heating and air-conditioning costs, it can also lock in moisture, which may result in mold. Droppings or tears in boards and insulation may be a sign of little critters. If you have critters living in your attic, they too can cause mold -- since they use the insulation for a toilet, and the moisture can remain there for months.

Basement Here's something we Californians don't typically have, which may explain our fascination with them. There are several potential hazards to be aware of with basements, and you should inspect your basement every couple of months. Does it feel damp? Feel and look around for wet spots. Check all pipes for leakage and corrosion. Refer to the pipe chart on pages 194-195 to learn what each pipe is for, so if anything does go wrong, you will know exactly how to pinpoint the problem and how to explain it to a professional. Check all electrical boxes and cords to assure that there are no loose or exposed wires and that they are secured or fastened to a wall or beam.

Fuse box This is an item with which I urge you to become familiar. Your fuse box is typically located just outside the house, near or in the garage, or in a back bedroom; however, they can be located anywhere. In a condo that I recently remodeled, the fuse box was in the kitchen. In my first apartment, it was behind the door in the guest room. It is a metal box that is usually 12 x 18 inches in size; however, they can range from as small as 5 x 7 inches to as large as 20 x 40 inches. Inspect the box and be sure it is clear of any wandering vines or plants that may have crawled up the wall. Trim nearby trees and brush so the area is always clear and the fuse box is accessible. You will save time and avoid headaches if you are familiar with the location of the fuse box, can access it easily, and have an understanding of each switch. Enlist the help of a friend who can stand inside the house and call out the exact areas that are turned off when you flip a switch. Be specific: It may not be just one room that is affected by any single switch. It could be the ceiling light in one room, an outlet in another, and yet another outlet down the hall. Once you have all the information written down, use masking tape and a permanent marker and label each switch. Yes, this may mean that you have to reset a few clocks, but I assure you it's worth it.

Let me share some stories of why this is so important. A friend of mine was complaining that her oven had stopped working. I asked her to check the fuse box. She found nothing unusual and told me the switch labeled "oven" appeared to be fine. She had bought the house just a year before and all the fuses were labeled. She ultimately called a repairman to inspect the oven, and after an hour and a half, they were both frustrated as to why it would not work. The repairman began checking every fuse and discovered that they were labeled incorrectly and the oven fuse had simply been flipped. He flipped it back and all was well in the world -- except for her checkbook, which was now minus $150.

Halls and common areas Take a moment to inspect all the common areas in your home, including hallways and stairways. This is probably where you will find your air-conditioning unit. Open its doors and take a good look. Is it clean and free from dust? Remove the filter. Is it clean or in need of replacing? To keep your unit running efficiently, you should replace the filter every six months. Be sure that pictures and other wall hangings are securely hung and supported with a large enough nail or screw. Ensure you have smoke detectors and that they are in good working order with fresh batteries. Test smoke detectors by holding down the button until they beep. Inspect any staircase balusters or other railings you may have. Are they secure? Attempt to move the whole railing back and forth. Is it strong and stationary? Inspect each spindle. Are they in good condition and stationary? Check the air vents in your home. Are they clean and free of dust? Any dust on vents not only creates an environment for allergens, but also causes your air-conditioning unit to run less efficiently. Vents are very easy to clean, so don't put it off.

Overall Prevention

Now that you have familiarized yourself with your home's ins and outs, you are ready to maintain it. Turn to the reference section at back of this book and study the maintenance schedule. This will tell you exactly when to change filters, clean vents, check rain gutters, and what to do to keep your home in great condition. If you do not understand any of the items listed above, refer to the corresponding section in part 2 of this book and educate yourself further. A house can be your biggest burden or your greatest joy -- you decide. Once you understand your home, you will be creating a safe haven for you and your family for years to come.

Permits

Before we get started, let's talk about laws -- safety and prevention. Sure, not the most exciting topics, but very important nonetheless.

To abide with the laws and guidelines governing home improvement you often need to obtain permits. They do exactly what they sound like they might do -- "permit" you to make a change to your home. Many projects, both large and small, require permits. Before you start any project, check with your local building department. Codes and requirements may differ from county to county. I'll list a few projects that definitely need permits, but there are hundreds more, so be sure to inquire. Always be sure that you (or any contractor you hire) acquire the proper permits. If you do not, you run the risk of faulty work or getting caught doing something you are not supposed to do. And you can't claim you just didn't know. I tried it -- trust me, it doesn't work.

Me Vs. Permits

I had the best of intentions. I was working on a remodel of a home built in 1939. I wasn't changing any of the outer floor plan, just fixing up the inside, replacing the windows, front door, and outdoor siding. I had removed the two sliding glass doors, reframed the two windows and front door, and just as I had both installed, a local, friendly inspector dropped by. He said it was the large trash bin in front of my house that tipped him off.

I promptly explained everything I was doing, with nothing to hide because I honestly only thought you needed permits if you changed the square footage of the home. I've learned a lot since then, to say the least. His eyes grew bigger and bigger as he started filling out some paperwork. He slapped me with a "stop order," insisting I cease all work until I acquired the proper permits. He explained to me that because I bought the house with some of the square footage not permitted, I had to make the necessary steps to permit those modifications, as well. "But I bought the house 'as is,'" I explained. He went on to explain that when I signed a disclosure that part of the property was not permitted, it became my responsibility, and I needed to rectify the situation.

This sent me into an eight-month uphill battle that required much more money than I imagined; plus, it left me without a front exterior wall through the entire process. Not only did I need a permit for the framing around the windows and doors, I now needed a permit for the new siding on the house, a soils report, a geological survey, a general survey of the house and the land, a plot plan, blueprints, "as-built" drawings, and countless other permits. Who knew? I was in the county office with tears streaming down my face. I couldn't believe that I was involved in a project where I had bitten off more than I could chew. I was mad at the inspector for stopping by, but more than that, I was mad at myself because I hadn't properly checked out the situation before I entered into it.

So heed my warning: do all the necessary research before you start! Permits cost anywhere from five dollars to thousands of dollars, depending on the scope of the work. Your local county office will have all the information you require. Go there first.

These projects (plus hundreds more) usually require permits:

Decking

Fencing

Structural alterations

New pool

Finishing a basement

Adding an electrical outlet or fixture

Installing a water heater, fireplace, furnace, or AC unit

HAP: Hiring a Professional

What do you need to know before you hire a professional? Besides having a basic knowledge of the task at hand, which you will learn in this book, there are some questions you should always ask before you hire.

1. Know: Be very clear on what services you need, before you call. Many people think they need one thing, but once the professional gets there, he or she may recommend many other services. Be clear, and don't be oversold. Ask for exactly what you want to be accomplished.

2. Quote: Ask for a quote over the phone. Some professionals may not be comfortable giving an exact quote; if so, ask for a range. They will most likely want to make an appointment to give you a detailed quote. Always get a quote before any work is started.

3. Permits: Ask if the job requires permits from the city or county. Ask if they will provide these for you, or if you will need to get them yourself.

4. Legal: Ask for documentation from the company that it is insured and licensed to do the job. Make sure the license is up to date. Find out how long the company has been in business.

5. References: Ask for at least three references from recent clients, preferably some in your immediate area. Make sure they are recent references. Call these references and find out if the company is reliable, if the quality of the work was what was expected, and if they finished within the budget and on time.

6. Better Business Bureau: Check with the Better Business Bureau to see if there have been any complaints about the company. My mom was once fooled by a contractor that sent a salesman to give a quote for the job. The salesman was great -- well dressed, well spoken, organized -- and appeared trustworthy. The workers and owner, however, were quite the opposite. After the entire job turned out to be a disappointment, my mom called the bureau. Sure enough, there were several complaints similar to my mom's. If she had only made the call before, it would have saved her a lot of misery -- and money.

7. Contract: Once a price is agreed upon, you have investigated references, and checked with the bureau, ask for a contract. The more specific it is, the better. That way there will be no confusion. This contract should include the following:

a. Dollar amount of the entire job: Be clear if this amount includes materials.

b. Schedule of payments: Typically, you will put a down payment of one-third. The remaining two-thirds of the payment can be at your discretion or their recommendation. However, make sure that the final payment is to be made after the job is complete.

c. Additional services: If the job requires additional services or materials, they must notify you before proceeding.

d. Work schedule: When will the job begin? How often will they work on it? Every day? Weekdays only? What time will they be arriving in the morning, and what time will they complete work each day? How many workers will be present? Will they bring portable bathrooms or be using yours? Will they be eating there or going away for lunch?

e. Completion date: What date will the project be completed? If it is not completed at this time, what are the repercussions? Have you heard of the projects that are supposed to take "two weeks" and end up taking months? If there are no penalties for going over the promised time, a contractor most likely will. You can impose penalties per day that they go over schedule, as long as it is in the contract from the beginning.

f. Contact: Who will be your day-to-day contact? Is there a foreman or a lead carpenter? You want to make sure that you have one central person who you can rely on to listen to your questions and give reliable answers.

g. Cleaning: At the end of each day and at the end of the project, make sure they leave the premises clean. If this is not in the contract, they can just leave you with the mess. Although it is annoying and unprofessional, it is not against the law to leave a work site messy.

Now that you are aimed and ready, you can take on some projects!

EACH PROJECT WILL HAVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION:

TUFF METER: From 1 to 10, with one being the easiest and 10 being the hardest, this meter will let you know what you are in for – and let you decide if you're up to the challenge.

TIMER: This will give you an estimated time of how long it should take you to complete the project.

TUFF TOOLS: This is a list of all the tools you will need to complete the project.

SHOPPING LIST: An excuse to shop! This is a list of all the things you must purchase to complete the project. But don't forget about the tools list...you might want to look at that before you go shopping just in case you need to pick up a tool you don't already have. In most cases, I have listed a range. Please keep in mind that prices will vary according to your area.

TOTAL PRICE: This is an estimate of the total cost of the materials needed to complete the project. Keep in mind that this is merely an estimate, and local prices may vary, but this will give you a good idea. In computing the total price, I have chosen the least expensive option in the range on the shopping list.

HAP (Hire a Professional): This is an estimate of how much it would cost to hire a professional to do the same project. Use this to help you decide if it would be better to take on the project yourself, or use this as a price guide for hiring a professional if you decide to go in that direction. This way, you will know if you are getting ripped off. (This is also just an estimate. Prices will vary greatly per region.) Most professionals charge a minimum fee just to come to your house, so keep that in mind as well.

For more on Paige Hemmis, visit her Web site, PaigeHemmis.com.

Reprinted by arrangement with Plume, a member of Penguin Group (USA) Inc., from THE TUFF CHIX GUIDE TO EASY HOME IMPROVEMENT by Paige Hemmis. Copyright (c) 2006 by Paige Hemmis