Tempest in a Coffee Cup

B E I J I N G, China, Nov. 29, 2000 -- To weary visitors, Starbucks’ tiny store amid the sprawling majesty of the imperial-era Forbidden City in Beijing is a welcome chance to rest with a frothy latte.

For some Chinese, however, the U.S. chain’s opening two months ago in the ancient home of China’s emperors is an act of American economic and cultural domination in one of their proudest national monuments — and on Tuesday they said they wanted the Yankees to go home.

“Tell some Chinese about the coffee shop and they react as ifshaken to their soul. ‘God!’ they exclaim, ‘Not the ForbiddenCity!’” the official China Consumer Journal groused.

Growing controversy about the Starbucks outlet promptedemployees to remove its trademark round green signs from outsidethe shop Tuesday, making it virtually impossible to distinguishfrom the dozens of gift shops dotting the massive complex ofpalaces and courtyards where China’s emperors once lived.

Administrators in charge of the 600-year-old palace were meetingto consider additional steps, which could include revokingStarbucks’ one-year lease, said the manager of a neighboring store,who refused to be identified by name.

Such action wouldn’t be completely without precedent. In April,city authorities ordered Kentucky Fried Chicken to close its storein Beihai Park, a scenic imperial garden near the Forbidden City,when its lease expires in 2002.

Cyber Dissent

The hoopla underscores the mixed emotions many Chinese havetoward the sweeping changes, Western influences and commercialismbrought by two decades of market reforms.

On Internet chat rooms, where criticism first surfaced after thecoffee shop opened Sept. 27, users lamented officials’ approval ofthe store, saying it reflected a get-rich-quick mentality. MostInternet chat room comment Tuesday was negative.

Supporters, however, said it was unfair to single out Starbucks,noting that the Forbidden City was already awash in commercialism.

A stroll through the palace reveals outdoor stands advertisingFuji Film and, in summer, Coca-Cola. Even large map boards that aidtourists in navigating the alleyways and great halls bear the logoof a sponsor, American Express.

The president of Starbucks Coffee Asia Pacific Ltd., Pedro Man,defended the Forbidden City shop, saying it was designed with localsensitivities in mind.

“Starbucks strives to respect the local cultural heritage inevery country where it does business,” said Man. “With regard tothe Forbidden City store, it was a landmark location and we workedclosely with the Forbidden City Museum authorities in respectingthe historical relevance of the site.”

Coffee or Chinese Tea?

Judging by the more than 100 people who purchase drinks at thecoffee shop everyday, plenty are happy with the Forbidden City’snewest addition, said David Sun, president of Beijing Meida CoffeeCo., which runs all of Seattle-based Starbucks’ outlets in theChinese capital.

“We’re there purely to provide a quality drink. It’s a simpleproposition,” Sun said.

The shop that triggered the furor is modest, located in a smalltraditional red-walled building near the towering Hall ofPreserving Harmony, where emperors once celebrated Chinese New Yearwith feasts.

There’s barely room to sip a frappuccino between the shop’sespresso machine and its two wooden tables and six chairs. But thestore’s two employees were kept busy Tuesday serving a steadystream of sightseers, most foreign, who stepped in out of thewinter cold for a warm drink.

“We welcome the coffee shop,” said Wen Junhua, who works at agift shop that shares the building with Starbucks.

“It draws in foreigners, who prefer coffee over our Chinesetea. And while they drink, they wander over to our displays andbuy. Everyone benefits.”