Changing the Face of Modeling Through Imperfections with Pride
This year's NYFW featured models with skin discoloration and disabilities.
-- New York Fashion Week this year hosted a new crop of models who are revolutionizing the runway, embracing what some might call “imperfections” with pride.
Winnie Harlow is one of those models.
The 20-year-old darling with prominent vitiligo, the same skin disease Michael Jackson said he had, was chosen as the face of both Diesel and Desigual.
This time last year, Harlow was an unknown, until her Instagram account caught Tyra Banks’ eye, who cast her on “America’s Next Top Model.” Although she didn’t end up winning her season, Harlow was still thrilled for the exposure.
“I wanted to be on the show as a platform to show the world me and see what could come out of that,” Harlow said. “But I didn’t think that I was going to win because of course it’s a reality show, so I thought there was going to be strategies and what not what have you.”
Her road to success was rocky at best. Harlow said she was bullied in school.
“It started in middle school I would say, they would call me names like cow, zebra, there were a few physical altercations,” she said. “As I got older and started accepting myself and loving all of my flaws, I was like ‘I can do this.’”
It was after she dropped out of high school, Harlow said, that she said she started to “focus on my own opinions” of her appearance, and embraced it.
The rise of the so-called “flawed model” is a major turn from the era of classic beauties, such as Christie Brinkley, Cindy Crawford or Naomi Campbell.
“Ten years ago models like that would not have been on the runway because our definition of beauty was much narrower,” said Robin Givhan, an award-winning fashion critic for The Washington Post. “There are models who are at the top of the industry who have sort of a quirky look. ... There’s room being made for women and for men who designers feel have an IT factor that makes them compelling on the runway.”
There was a resounding theme of “inspirational” at this year’s Fashion Week. The FTL Moda show featured gorgeous models in wheelchairs, and the first-ever male amputee to walk at New York Fashion Week. At the Carrie Hammer show, actress Jamie Brewer made history as the first person with Down syndrome to walk the runway.
“I think we should celebrate the moment but not necessarily assume the moment is going to lead to a new era,” Givhan said. “I think for designers who are always trying to push the edges of their creativity I think they’re always searching for something that is different and something that will surprise us and something that will make them stand out.”
Another rising star in the fashion world is 23-year-old Shaun Ross, who is albino. He has worked with some of the biggest names in the business, including Givenchy and Alexander McQueen, and being featured in publications GQ and Vogue Italia.
“I know there are going to be people out there that are going to make fun of me,” Ross said. “There are going to be people out there who are not going to see this vision eye to eye the way I do, but I know that I have everything that it takes to make people see things differently.”
It’s that confidence that has propelled him to career highs, including a collaboration with Beyonce. Ross played a memorable role in her music video for “Pretty Hurts,” depicting a brutal beauty director.
“I remember the first thing she said to me, she said, ‘you are so beautiful,’ and I was just like, ‘woah, Beyoncé said that, no one could tell me anything. I don’t care what the hell you say right now, Beyoncé just told me I’m beautiful,’” he said.
Ross is hoping to extend his art beyond the runway. Earlier this fall, artist Jerome Lagarrigue debuted a gallery featuring life-sized portraits of Ross.
Growing up, Ross said he too dealt with bullies.
“Kids used to call me the most creative names from Pillsbury Doughboy to White Out, Casper, Powder, anything that revolved around white, you name it, Elmer’s Glue, everything,” he said.
Now, those early days of rejection for both Ross and Harlow are distant memories, as they pull off show-stopping runway walks at Fashion Week.
“I feel like everything in my life whether it was good or bad, especially now so more than ever, it’s definitely the perfect design,” Ross said. “Everything is happening for a reason.”
For Harlow, her biggest concern these days is conquering her upcoming photo shoot in Milan.
“I kind of just take it day by day, something small changes every day,” she said. “I think I just take it all in stride and then it doesn’t seem like this huge ordeal but when I look back on it, it’s pretty huge.”