The Franco-German Face of Alsace
Sept. 24, 2004 -- — The region of Alsace, now in eastern France but at times part of western Germany, stands like a flower-child referee between the two countries.
This is a lush land of Hansel-and-Gretel villages, sprawling vineyards, and engaging towns and cities. As evidence of their dual heritage, locals have names like Jacques Schmidt and can swear bilingually.
Alsatian cuisine is a tourist attraction in itself. The German influence is obvious. Look for choucroute garnie (sauerkraut and sausage), although it seems a shame to eat it in a fancy restaurant. For dessert, try glace Kugelhopf, an irresistible light cake mixed with raisins, almonds, dried fruit and cherry liqueur.
To get a taste of small-town Alsatian life, visit tiny Eguisheim. Stop by up-tempo Strasbourg for a big city — one that's been at the cultural crossroads since the time of the Romans.
Eguisheim is a circular, festooned little wine town (pop: 1,600), almost too cute for its own good. Ideal for a relaxing lunch and vineyard walks, it makes a good base for exploring the Wine Road of the Alsace.
While Eguisheim's ancient wall is gone, the street running along its original ramparts survives, scenically circling the village. The main drag bisects the circle, leading to a darling main square right out of a Grimm's fairy tale, lined with Renaissance houses. Lose all sense of discipline and wander the town, sampling the shops, cafés, and fruit of the local vine.
Bustling Strasbourg, in contrast, is urban Alsace at its best. It's progressive and livable, with generous space devoted to pedestrians, scads of bikes, sleek trams, meandering waterways and a young, lively mix of university students, Eurocrats and street people. This place has an Amsterdam-like feel. Situated just west of the Rhine River, Strasbourg provides the ultimate blend of Franco-Germanic culture.
Take a cruise on the river on a glass-topped boat. You'll pass through two locks as you circle Strasbourg's old town clockwise. The highlight for me was cruising by the European Parliament buildings and the European Court of Human Rights.
None of Strasbourg's museums are compelling — you're here to see the cathedral, wander the waterways, and take a bite out of the big city. Strasbourg's cathedral has a single soaring spire and pink sandstone color — an “oh wow” sight that's impressed everyone, including its first medieval tourists.
Made with a delicate Gothic style (begun in 1176, not finished until 1429), the cathedral is another Franco-German mixture. It somehow survived the French Revolution, the Franco-Prussian war, World War I and World War II. Street performers use the square in front of the cathedral as their own personal stage — it's like a medieval fair from generations past. Even 2,000 years ago, Strasbourg's square was a center of activity for the Romans.
Perched between feuding French and German governments, the Alsace has been a political pawn for 1,000 years. But this beautiful region thrives with a rich culture and eclectic cuisine. As you sample German sausages and fine French wine, make a toast to the hybrid culture of the Alsace.
Route du Vin
Alsace is famous for its Wine Road, 90 miles of vineyards and villages. Most towns have wineries that give tours. Be careful not to overdose on all the half-timbered cuteness. Two or three villages are sufficient for most. Here are a few sights you'll see along the wine road, which is tourable by foot, bike, car or minibus tour: Eguisheim (featured in article); Kayserberg, once the home of Dr. Albert Schwietzer; the walled village of Riquewihr; and Hunawihr, with a stork park. The Vieil-Armand WWI Memorial in Cernay reminds us that this peaceful wine-soaked land has been a hotly contested battlefield.