Afternoon Tea Shows Off Ritzy Manhattan

N E W   Y O R K, Feb. 12, 2004 -- Teatime in Manhattan is much more than sconesand finger sandwiches. Afternoon tea not only serves as a tonic forweary sightseers, but it can also help you experience aspects ofthe city you might otherwise miss.

A budget traveler who could never afford a luxury hotel can usethe hotel's $30 afternoon tea as a window into that high-classworld. A tourist who's spent the day waiting on line at crowdedlandmarks may relish the chance to sit in a friendly neighborhoodcafe. And if you don't have time for the decorative artscollections at the city's museums, afternoon tea showcases manyeveryday objects made beautiful — silver tea strainers, bone-chinacups and teapots shaped like castles.

If you're downtown, try the exquisite Lady Mendl's, where you'llbe charmed by Gramercy Park's streetscapes; Tea & Sympathy, a cozyBritish cafe in Greenwich Village; or the trendy T Salon near theFlatiron Building. Uptown, a Japanese-themed tea awaits atTakashimaya; Alice's Tea Cup pays tribute to Lewis Carroll; and themother of all teas, at the Plaza Hotel, features elegance andEloise.

THE PLAZA HOTEL'S PALM COURT: From the harpist in her glittering gown to the waiters' impeccable service, from the gilt-edged marblecolumns to the crystal chandeliers, from the towering palm trees tothe pink azaleas blooming in winter, the setting is magical andopulent.

The Plaza is the city's only hotel on the National Register ofHistoric Landmarks, and as you pass the limos parked outside,you're walking in the footsteps of Vanderbilts and movie stars.Films shot here range from North by Northwest to Home AloneII. Inside, take the hall on your left to visit the portrait ofEloise, from the famous children's book, and the restrooms; eventhe bathroom ceilings are trimmed in gold. The finger sandwiches are delicate and crustless, with cucumbersliced so thin it offers just a whisper of a crunch. The scones —dense yet light, sweet with a hint of salt — go so perfectly withthe clotted cream that no jam is needed, but who can resistsampling the tiny jars of orange marmalade and blackberrypreserves? Assorted desserts follow — tarts, cake and cookies.Build up an appetite by walking in Central Park; the zoo is near64th Street.

Location: Fifth Avenue near 59th Street. Hours: 3:45 p.m. to 6p.m. Monday to Saturday; Sunday, 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. Phone: (212)759-3000. Cost: $29.95; children's tea, $19.95.

TAKASHIMAYA'S TEA BOX: Fifth Avenue between 50th and 59thstreets is shopping paradise, from the ritzy Louis Vuitton andHarry Winston to mass-market Disney and H&M. Takashimaya, anupscale Japanese department store, is part of the mix; the Tea Box,its in-store cafe, offers an "eastwest tea" unlike any other.

The fusion of flavors and textures artfully arranged on alacquered black tray includes vegetable chips, mini-wraps, a tinyfoccaccia smeared with horseradish cream and sushi cut to look likea finger sandwich, with sticky rice instead of bread. Goodiesinclude sugared nuts, sliced fruit, spice cake, butter cookies,candied ginger dipped in chocolate and luscious mocha pudding.Sugar comes crystallized on a stick so you can sweeten and stiryour tea simultaneously.

The decor is soothingly minimalist, with stone-colored china,beige fabric billowing from the ceiling, and burlap-colored chairs.The muted effect is a perfect backdrop for the explosion of tastesand colors in the meal; the clientele is young, chic andinternational.

Location: 693 Fifth Ave., near 54th Street. Hours: 3 p.m. to5:45 p.m. Phone: (212) 350-0179. Cost: $18 for "eastwest" tea.

TEA & SYMPATHY: Tea & Sympathy is a bustling cafe in GreenwichVillage, with plastic flowered tablecloths and charminglymismatched china, including teapots shaped like clocks, globes andcastles. The sandwiches — chicken, egg and tuna salad — are homey,dripping with mayonnaise; the scones are heavenly — light, doughyand slightly salty; and the desserts are yummy but not gourmet — achocolate cupcake and simple white cake.

Don't be put off by the stiff note on the door that begins "Tea& Sympathy girls are always right" followed by rules about waitingoutside until everyone in your party is present. The staff — alongwith some customers — consists of friendly expat Brits. You'll feellike you're having tea in someone's home in England, rather thanwith the queen — even though her portrait is on the wall.

Afterwards, head east and south towards Washington Square Park forthe heart of the Village; take in the boutiques, artsy gift shopsand colorful street life as you stroll.

Location: 108 Greenwich Ave., between 13th and 14th streets,near Seventh Avenue. Hours: noon until sandwiches run out, around6:30 p.m. Phone: (212) 807-8329. Cost: $19.95.

LADY MENDL'S TEA SALON AT THE INN AT IRVING PLACE: Exquisite isthe word for both the setting and the menu. The salon is named forLady Mendl (born Elsie de Woolf), who was credited with originatingthe field of interior design; she would certainly have approved ofits refined decor — wall sconces, decorative plaster molding,wooden arches with pocket doors, Oriental rugs, lace tableclothsand Lenox china trimmed in gold.

The food is equally divine, from the sugar cubes embellishedwith tiny pink flowers to delectable sandwiches like goat cheese onseven-grain bread. You'll also get salad, scones, cookies,chocolate-covered strawberries and a delicate cake made fromswirled layers of crepes and cream.

Architecture and urban history buffs will love the 19th centuryGreek Revival and Victorian Gothic townhouses of Gramercy Square.You'll find the Inn at Irving Place in one of these restoredbeauties — but you'll have to look carefully for it. This discreet$400-a-night hotel has no canopy or doorman — just a picture of atiny teacup on the door.

Location: 56 Irving Place, between 17th and 18th streets.Reservations required for seatings at 3 p.m. or 5 p.m., Wednesdaythrough Friday; at 2 p.m. or 4:30 p.m., Saturday and Sunday. Phone:(212) 533-4466. Cost: $30.

ALICE'S TEA CUP: Although passages from "Alice in Wonderland"adorn the walls, traditional English tea has a distinct Americanspin at this unpretentious Upper West Side cafe, complete withhearty ham-and-cheese sandwiches, pumpkin scones and chocolate chipcookies.

The clientele is local and female, from college students tostroller-pushing mommies; twin actresses Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsennamed Alice's as a favorite eatery in a recent issue of TeenPeople. Walk your meal off with a trip to the American Museum ofNatural History at 81st Street and Central Park West; LincolnCenter at 65th Street and Broadway, or Strawberry Fields, the JohnLennon memorial in Central Park between 71st and 74th streets.

Location: 102 W. 73rd St., near Columbus Avenue. Hours: Monday,11:30 a.m to 6 p.m.; Tuesday to Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.;weekends, 10:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Phone: (212) 799-3006. Cost: $20,$25 or $30 depending on the quantity of food; $8 for scones and apot of tea.

T SALON: This is the grooviest afternoon tea in New York, ahippie-chic meal with the feel of a collegetown cafe, at a priceonly a gainfully employed grown-up can afford. Here you'll finddistressed wood finishes, soft rock music, Eastern objet d'arts andchai as well as Darjeeling. The sandwiches retain their crusts andone includes alfalfa sprouts; the scones are pre-sliced and tastemore like fruit bread than a biscuit. But all is yummy, from thegoat cheese-and-arugula on raisin bread to the Earl Grey-flavoredchocolate cake.

While you're in the area, check out the trendy home-designstores that line the sidestreets; visit Madison Square Park and theFlatiron Building, an architectural marvel at Fifth Avenue and 23rdStreet; and take in the collection of antique irons in the windowof Iron Copy Store at 25. E. 20th St. Next door is trixie+peanut, astore devoted to dog fashion.

Location: 11 E. 20 St. Hours: 11 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. Phone: (212)358-0506. Cost: $35.

WORTH MENTIONING: Cafe Kinokuniya, inside the Kinokuniya Booksstore (10 W. 49th St.), where $10 buys sandwiches, tea and a bag ofdelightful green tea cookies; and the $20 tea at American GirlPlace (609 Fifth Ave.), featuring peanut butter-and-jelly and hotcocoa. Both places are in Rockefeller Center. TIPS FOR TEA: Use a strainer if one is provided to avoid leavesin your tea. Ask for caffeine-free tea if you're prone tosleeplessness. The T Salon and Alice's Tea Cup have bargains on teafor two; others charge full price per person. But don't hesitate tohave tea by yourself — it's a meal that can be fully enjoyed insolitude.