Aruba's Countryside Puts Beach to Shame
O R A N J E S T A D, Aruba, Dec. 17, 2003 -- Should you get lost in Aruba, follow the divi-divi trees.
That was the tip from Leroy King, a tour guide, as my mother,aunts and a busload of people ventured into the rocky, parchedinterior that defines much of this unique island.
The divi-divi trees — gnarled and outstretched to the CaribbeanSea — have been contorted by the steady tradewinds into huge,bonsai-like figures, and their limbs point west, to the bustlinghotel district.
But we quickly realized that many of Aruba's points of interestare far from the hotels and the island's Main Street, with itscolorful casinos and storefronts. Away from these developments, weencountered white sand dunes amid rugged desert landscapes. Thecoastline is strewn with coral-encrusted shipwrecks. Volcanic rockformations, lagoons and gold mine ruins wait to be explored, andtowering cacti and aloe dot the arid countryside.
"When people think of the Caribbean, they think of a lush,tropical island. Aruba is not," said Theo DeJongh, a statisticalmanager with the Aruba Tourism Authority in Oranjestad.
A Mixture of Everything
The island's interior instead brings to mind the starklandscapes of the American Southwest. "It's not just beaches andcasinos," DeJongh said. "It's a mixture of everything."
The island's most photographed attraction, the Natural Bridge,is a coral formation that was once a cave entrance on thenortheastern shore. The entrance eroded over time and collapsed toform an arch 100 feet wide and 25 feet above the sea.
"We've been all over in our travels, but we were looking forsomething different," said Sylvia Scott, 63, of Sussex, England,as she and her husband, Don, watched the waves crash against thecliffs around the bridge. "Shop after shop after shop, that's notmy type of holiday. For the scenery alone, it's worth cominghere." Aruba became an autonomous member of the Netherlands in 1986.Though Spain first claimed it in 1499, Holland's rule left lastingcultural influences on the indigenous population of CaquetioIndians and those who followed.
Fort Zoutman and the King Willem III Tower are remnants of Dutcharchitecture and the site of a weekly Bon Bini Festival, acelebration of local music, dance, art and cuisine. The fort,completed in 1796 and still armed with cannons, has a museum filledwith local artifacts.
Aruba has its own currency, the Aruban florin, and while Dutchis the official language, most Arubans are fluent in three more:English, Papamiento, which is spoken throughout the NetherlandsAntilles, and Spanish. Venezuela is a mere 15 miles from theisland's southernmost tip; Miami is a three-hour flight.
The island — 20 miles long, 6 miles wide and 12 degrees north ofthe equator — is also safely outside the region's hurricane belt,making it an attractive destination for late summer and autumntravelers as well as those seeking sun in the winter. Aruba'sannual rainfall is less than 20 inches, and the temperatureaverages 82 degrees; by midday, heat can be intense with littleshade in sight.
My relatives have been coming here for 20 years, and each timethey discover something missed on a previous trip. My aunt spenther honeymoon here 15 years ago; my mother snaps pictures andshakes her head upon noticing every new attraction. "I can'tbelieve they have an ostrich farm now," she says.
Home to the Tunnel of Love
But despite repeat visits to the island and the use of a map, wegot lost while driving around one afternoon, and were amazed tofind how quickly our route became a long, dusty road where goatsand iguanas had the right of way. On another day of our trip, weopted for a daylong bus tour, for $40 a person, which includedlunch at a local eatery. As we headed to the Parke Nacional Arikok — Aruba's nationalpark, covering 20 percent of the island — the sea and the dunes ofBoca Prins appeared as a mirage of vibrant blue and white. But thedrive also felt a little like a roller coaster ride — narrow,winding, bumpy roads were the only way to the Fontein Cave, whichboasts bat-filled tunnels and ancient drawings attributed to theArawak Indians who populated the island before the Europeansarrived.
The park is also home to the Tunnel of Love and Guadiriki caves.If you're there at the right time and you climb to the caves'entrance, you'll see sunlight streaming into two huge chambers.Some say the passageways hold the spirits of pirates andstar-crossed lovers. Emerging from the caves, you might see — as wedid — a herd of wild donkeys grazing in the distance.
Dive sites near Aruba are extraordinary, with at least a dozenshipwrecks. Nothing compares to the grand dame known as theAntilla, just a mile offshore and not far from another tourist draw— the California Lighthouse in Noord.
An Underwater Tapestry
Splashes of color — mostly lobsters, fish and tube sponges —create an underwater tapestry running through the World War IIGerman freighter. It's one of the largest wrecks in the Caribbean,and fairly intact despite its history. The ship's captain scuttledthe 400-foot long vessel when Aruba authorities ordered him tosurrender. He went to prison; the Antilla went 60 feet under.
On Aruba's North Coast, the remote, uneven terrain invitesmountain biking, off-road safaris and all-terrain vehicles.Traveling the well-worn dirt trails by horseback takes stamina;wear a hat and sunscreen and drink plenty of water. On the island's eastern shore, waters are choppy. The waves areespecially strong at an area called Boca Mahos — which translatesto "ugly mouth." In contrast, the lagoon at the island'ssouthernmost tip, across from South America, is so tranquil thatthe locals say babies can swim there — hence its name, Baby Beach.
But the most popular beaches are places like Palm and Eagle,along the West Coast, near the hotels. Just let the divi-divi treespoint the way.
If You Go…
GETTING THERE: Air Holland and KLM fly from Amsterdam to Aruba.American Airlines flies from New York, Boston, Miami, San Juan andNewark, N.J. US Airways, Air Canada and Delta Air Lines haveconnecting flights. Round-trip fares from New York are around $600.For information on cruises,visit www.arubabycruise.com GETTING AROUND: You can rent cars, take off-road Jeep tours orbus tours, or travel by taxi. But cabs don't have meters, so askfor rates upfront. Fares from the airport to hotels run about $20.Rancho Notorious offers horseback and mountain bike tours,www.ranchonotorious.com DIVING: For dives, Atlantis Adventures,http://www.atlantisadventures.com/index.php, Aruba Pro Dive,http://www.arubaprodive.com or Red Sail Sports,http://www.redsail.com. Most hotels offer dive packages.Professional dive shops have weekly specials, courses andbeginner's certification. PLACES OF INTEREST: Arikok National Park, Antilla shipwreck, thecaves of Guadiriki, Fontein and Tunnel of Love, Natural Bridge, Ayoand Casibari rock formations, Spanish Lagoon, Hooiberg hill, AltoVista Chapel, gold smelter ruins, Arashi coral reefs, CaliforniaLighthouse, Bubali bird sanctuary, Lourdes Grotto in San Nicolas.For sightseeing in the caves, bring or rent a flashlight.Windsurfing hotspots: Malmok, Boca Grandi and Hadicurari(Fisherman's Huts) FOR MORE INFORMATION: Call the Aruba Tourism Authority at (800)TO-ARUBA or visit www.aruba.com.