Take a Tapas Tour of Madrid

Oct. 7, 2008 — -- Madrid was not built on a major waterway like many European cities -- rather King Philip II moved the Spanish court there in 1561, and it became the capital because it was located in the center of Spain.

Its location also makes it a culinary epicenter, and food from around the country arrives daily, such as specialty cheeses from the northern region of Asturias, seafood from coastal Catalonia and produce from Murcia, a region located between Andalucia in the south and Valencia to the northeast.

The Spanish eat their large meal at lunchtime, which is sometimes followed by a "siesta" or a rest. Because of soaring summertime temperatures, the streets tend to be quiet until after nightfall, and then the city center fills up. People move from bar to bar, sipping cocktails and nibbling tapas, which are small plates of regional specialties.

To people watch, head to the Plaza Mayor for a light drink such as "clara con limón," a beer with sparkling lemonade. Then wander the winding streets near the Puerto del Sol area, looking for tapas bars that are crowded and lively, often with rumpled paper napkins on the floor. Many restaurants and bars will have rows of hooved pig legs anchored from the ceiling -- this Spanish standard is "jamón serrano," or ham that is rolled in sea salt and dry cured by hanging from rafters. The very thin, salty ham is sold in slivers.

To sample the different varieties, go to the Museo del Jamón (Plaza Mayor, 18). The label "pata negra" means that the ham is from black Iberico pigs that are native to Spain, and the highest quality is Jamon Iberico de Bellota. These black pigs are free range and fed acorns that farmers knock down from trees for them. The meat tends to be darker, and fat is marbled through it. Thin slices of jamón are delicious with manchego cheese and go well with Tempranillo red wine from the Ribera del Duero region.

For a taste of Asturias in northern Spain, go to Restaurante Sidreria El Ñeru, C/Bordadores, 5, 28013 Madrid. Cider is the traditional drink of this area, which is not sweet; rather, it has a light, acidic quality that goes well with "queso de cabrales," a type of artisanal blue cheese that is aged in limestone caves.

Visitors to Spain are likely to hear a couple different versions about how tapas started. The most popular one is that when drinking beers in taverns, people placed a slice of bread over their beers to keep the flies out, hence the word "tapa," or lid. Along with tapas, there are also "tapitas," or free, very small plates of food that come with drinks. These are most often olives or almonds.

James Fraser, tapas guide for the Intercontinental Hotel Madrid Concierge "Insiders" program, suggests waiting to order tapas until you get your drinks and see what complementary tapitas arrive. You might not need to order much more food.

Despite being landlocked, Madrid has a large fish market, and there are lots of seafood tapas to be found. To sample cod, go to the lively neighborhood of La Latina, near the Puerto del Sol. As dusk settles outside, the tables fill up. Make your way to Casa Labra (Tetuán, 12) to try its "croqueta de bacalao," or salt cod fritter. Try these with a glass of crisp, white wine from the Rueda region of Spain. Next, amble down a block or so to try calamares in "su tinta," or squid in its own ink, at Casa Revuelta (Latoneros 3), another traditional Spanish place.

For vegetables, go to the most crowded, liveliest place you can find and order patatas bravas, which are fried potatoes served with garlicky mayonnaise and "pimientos de padrón," which is a plate of broiled green peppers. The seeds were brought back to Galicia, Spain, from Latin America by Franciscan priests. They look like jalapeño peppers, though most of them are more savory than spicy, but every so often, you get a hot one. The seafood and vegetables all go well with about any beverage, but a Spanish rose cava is a light counterpart.

Madrileños, or people of Madrid, like to end their night on a sweet note with a visit to Chocolatería San Ginés (Pasadizo de San Gines), found at the end of a small curving street just off the major street, Arenal. Here, steaming plates of churros, which are long, thin, deep-fried doughnuts, get dunked into thick cups of hot chocolate.

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Tapas Recipes

Keep in mind that most Spanish tapas have fairly simple preparation, so if you can find the ingredients, they aren't difficult to make at home. These recipes for very traditional Spanish tapas are by Juan Carlos de la Torre, head chef at Intercontinental Hotel Madrid.

Tortilla Española, or Spanish Omelette

6 eggs

2 Spanish onions, chopped

1 green pepper, chopped

2 tablespoons of parsley, chopped

3 tablespoons of olive oil

Slice the potatoes. Chop the onions. Beat the eggs in a bowl. Add some salt and pepper. Heat the oil in the frying pan. Fry the potatoes, the onions. Pour the eggs over the vegetable, and cook for 3 minutes. Turn the omelette very carefully. Put a plate over the frying pan and turn the pan over quickly; slide the omelette carefully back into the pan and cook for another 3 minutes.

Garlic Prawns

12 large raw prawns

2 garlic cloves, crushed

Small handful parsley, chopped

Salt

In a large pan, heat the oil and butter. Add the prawns and garlic, and stir well. Stir fry until the prawns are pink (about 4 to 5 minutes). Season with salt, and scatter the chopped parsley over with the fried garlic. Serve at once.