Six secret Mexican gems for the budget traveler
— -- Isla Holbox
A refuge from the mega-resorts and the pseudo eco-parks of Mexico's Caribbean coast, Isla Holbox promises travelers a laid-back beach retreat and the chance for authentic encounters with nature. This small sickle-shaped island sits north of Cancun in the placid Gulf of Mexico (rough water is often a problem on the Caribbean coast), making it a great destination for swimmers and wildlife watchers who come to see the birds and marine animals that congregate in waters nearby.
Relaxing is the main island pastime. There are miles of undeveloped beach on which to stroll and in the town you can sip cerveza and dine on fresh, locally caught seafood at open-air restaurants. You should make the effort to view the island's wildlife if possible. Kayak out to the lagoon on the mainland-facing side of the island and paddle among the mangroves to view birds like pink flamingos, spoonbills, and white ibises. If you're here between May and mid-September, you'll have the rare chance to swim with migrating whale sharks—the largest fish in the world. Whale shark tours depart from the island and cost about $90 per person.
For cozy digs right on the beach, stay at the top-rated (according to sister site TripAdvisor) Posada Mawimbi where nightly double occupancy rates start at $65. There's an on-site bar where breakfast, lunch, and happy hour are served and a tropical garden with palm-thatched palapas and hammocks. The hotel can arrange for whale-shark swimming and other tours.
Queretaro
At once one of Mexico's most modern cities and a colonial gem, Queretaro offers visitors both the chance to immerse themselves in the city's fascinating 475-year history and enjoy a sophisticated dining and nightlife scene. Queretaro is often overlooked by tourists who come to the region to visit the more popular nearby town of San Miguel de Allende, but it's well worth a few days' exploration, and is generally easier on the wallet.
Founded by the Spanish in 1531, Queretaro was the scene of several pivotal moments in Mexico's history, such as the conspiracy that started Mexican independence and the convention that produced the country's constitution. Its historic heart is a UNESCO World Heritage site, with numerous monuments, baroque churches, and mansions to see. Take yourself on a walking tour along cobblestone streets to see sites like the Plaza de la Independencia, which is lined with restored colonial mansions; the Templo de Santa Rosa de Viterbos, Queretaro's most ornate baroque church; and the Museo de Arte de Queretaro, a former Augustine monastery that is now an art museum.
In the evenings, pick one of the city's numerous plaza-view restaurants for good people watching and try local favorites such as xoconostles (sweetened prickly pear cactus) or barbacoa de borrego (baked lamb). Later on, you can head to a Queretaro nightclub or try to catch a free live concert in the main plaza.
Just a block from the main plaza, the colonial inn Quinta Zoe offers renovated rooms with fine linens and hard-carved furniture from $89 per night. There's a two-night minimum.
Copper Canyon
Four times the size of the Grand Canyon, Mexico's Copper Canyon is an adventure traveler's paradise—though visited by far fewer people than its northern neighbor. Made up of six separate canyons rather than one and possessing unique geological, ecological, and cultural assets, Copper Canyon is certainly worth the trip south.
Most visitors experience the canyons by riding the Chihuahua al Pacifico railway between the cities of Los Mochis and Chihuahua, a 387-mile journey through some of Mexico's most dramatic wilderness. Several companies run pricey luxury rail tours along the line, but you can also ride el Chepe, the local train that traverses the route daily. One-way fares start at as little as $61. You can do the whole journey over one long 18-and-a-half-hour ride, but it's much better to get off in some of the towns along the way and take a few days to explore.
Try spending a night or two in the town of Creel, a ranching town set in pine-covered mountains where you'll find lots of hiking and have the chance to see how the local Tarahumara Indians live. You can spend the night in the Copper Canyon Sierra Lodge, a comfy mountain retreat with easy access to hiking and mountain biking trails. Nightly per person rates, which include lodging, three meals, and a dinner drink, start at $92.
Since most Copper Canyon tours involve stays in multiple towns and activities that can require advance reservations, it's helpful to book with a tour company that can make all the arrangements for you. The adventure company Nichols Expeditions can put together affordable custom trips for individuals and groups based on your interests and timeline. As an example, a week-long trip including the rail journey, hotels, and some meals starts at $455 per person.
Cuernavaca
Serving as a retreat for the elite since 1522 when conquistador Hernan Cortez built a summer palace here, Cuernavaca still attracts rejuvenation seekers today. International visitors can join weekenders from Mexico City who come relax in spas and experience the town's rich history, or spend a week or more with other travelers attending one of Cuernavaca's many affordable Spanish language schools.
Just 53 miles from Mexico City, a trip to Cuernavaca makes for an easy city escape. A town of lush gardens, historic haciendas, and squares bustling with craft sellers and artists at work, Cuernavaca is a walker's destination. Stroll around the town's historic colonial center and tour Cortez' former palace (about $3), which is built on top of Aztec ruins, now partially excavated. Stop by the Jardin Borda ($3), an estate and gardens where Emperor Maximilian stayed during his brief reign over Mexico in the 1860s.
If you have more than a few days and are interested in brushing up your Spanish skills, sign up for a course at a local language school. The Cuernavaca Language School is one of the best, charging $270 per week for intensive full-day courses. The school can arrange for homestays, including three daily meals, for as little as $30 per day.
Spa services are mostly available at a variety of boutique spa hotels, such as Mision del Sol Resort and Spa, a luxurious eco-spa where package rates start at $210 for two people, including breakfast and yoga, Tai Chi, and meditation classes. If you don't need a spa you'll find a good range of pleasant, affordable lodgings such as the well regarded Your Host Inn, where suites start at $65 per night double occupancy including breakfast.
Rincon de Guayabitos
One of SmarterTravel.com's five Destinations to Watch in 2009, the Riveriera Nayarit is a 200-mile stretch of Pacific coastline north of Puerto Vallarta that includes the exclusive luxury community of Punta Mita as well as a few laid-back beach towns where you can still catch some rays and waves for a low price. One such town, Rincon de Guayabitos, attracts budget-minded families eager to escape the hustle and high prices of Puerto Vallarta.
Protected from fierce Pacific waves by Jaltemba Bay, Rincon de Guayabitos' beaches are lapped by gentle waves, making it easy to enjoy swimming and other watersports like kayaking and snorkeling. The beach is lined with casual outdoor eateries where you can feast on chorizo (Mexican sausage) and seafood, and where vendors offer glass-bottom boat tours, snorkeling excursions, and other trips. It's worthwhile to arrange a trip to nearby Isla Islote, a half-moon shaped island with good opportunities for snorkeling.
For a small town, Rincon de Guayabitos offers a wide variety of accommodations options, including hotels, B&Bs, and rental condos and homes. Vacation rentals may be a good option for families, and you can find properties with rates as low as $350 per week on VRBO. If you'd prefer more traditional lodging, try Casa de los Pelicanos, a bed and breakfast with suites from $95 per night.
Valladolid
Most people who visit the Yucatan stay in resorts on the coast and, at most, take the four-hour bus ride inland to see the famous Maya ruins of Chichen Itza. But sticking to the traditional tourist track means they're missing out on some lesser-known ruins and natural attractions in the Yucatan interior and fascinating colonial towns like Valladolid. A two-hour drive inland from Cancun, Valladolid is a friendly town where you can experience living Maya culture and cuisine, tour the spectacular ruins of Ek Balam, and go swimming in a natural underground pool.
Small and compact, Valladolid is easily explored on foot and great for people watching. Stroll through the main square and browse vendors selling Maya dresses, or sit on a bench and listen to musicians playing traditional music. Be sure to try some of the tasty local dishes like pollo pibil (chicken cooked in banana leaves) or sopa de lima (lime soup) at an eatery like the restaurant at the El Meson del Marques hotel.
During the hot afternoons, you can relax and go swimming at Cenote Dzitnup (about $2), a cave filled with turquoise-colored water illuminated by a natural sky light. About 11 miles north of town, the little-visited ruins of Ek Balam have a taller pyramid than the biggest in Chichen Itza.
Build around the remains of a 17th century hacienda, rooms at the pleasant, centrally located El Meson del Marques start at a mere $54 per night for two people. Accommodations are simple but clean, and an on-site restaurant serves some of the best food in town.
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