Sightseeing High and Low in Hilly Lyon

May 2, 2006 — -- For the people of Lyon -- a French city sandwiched between the Burgundy and Provence regions -- dining out is a passion. It's what everyone talks about all the time.

Here, great chefs are more famous than professional soccer players. Plan for a full day of seeing Lyon's fine sights -- including a Roman museum and a neighborhood unchanged since the Renaissance -- and then kick back in the evening just as the locals do, at a characteristic French cafe.

Lyon has been among France's leading cities since when the Romans ruled. In spite of its work-a-day, business-first facade, overlooked Lyon is the most historic and culturally important city in France after Paris. Here you'll experience Old World cobbled alleys, Renaissance mansions, and the classy, Parisian-feeling shopping streets of the Presqu'île district. From Lyon, it's a short drive to the French countryside where you can experience the nearby spiritual small towns, including the famous Cluny Abbey (covered in next week's column).

In Lyon, some of the sights are located on a high hill, and some far below. To make your sightseeing manageable, take a funicular up Fourvière Hill -- home to Lyon's don't-miss-it Roman Theaters and Gallo-Roman Museum. Once you're done and have enjoyed the city view, hop on another funicular back down, and explore the Old Town -- Vieux Lyon -- and Presqu'île.

Founded in A.D. 43, Lyon was an important transportation hub for the administration of Roman Gaul. Emperor Caracalla was even born here. Today, the site of two Roman Theaters is free to enter. In July and August, the city hosts an open-air festival of concerts, theater, dance and film in these ancient venues.

The Gallo-Roman Museum, situated near the Roman Theaters, makes it clear how important Lyon was in ancient times.

This interesting museum, wonderfully explained in English, takes you on a chronological stroll using local artifacts. A model of Roman Lyon shows a town of 50,000 in its 2nd century glory days. A speech by Emperor Claudius carved into a big, black bronze tablet recalls how, in A.D. 48, he worked to integrate Gauls into the empire by declaring that they were eligible to sit in the Roman Senate. A mosaic shows a Ben Hur-type chariot race. There's hands-on fun, too. With the push of a button, you can see the mechanics of a theater stage curtain in action.