Afghan Kowk Fighting: Cherished, But Illegal

KABUL, Afghanistan, June 7, 2009— -- Released from their cages, the two fighters circle each other in the dirt ring. Behind them trainers whisper in their ears, coaxing them into striking the first blow. Then, one of the pugilists strikes, sinking his red curved beak into the back of his opponent's neck.

Hundreds of turbaned men lumped around the circle cheer, at the Sha'are Naw city park in the heart of Kabul.

Some clutch wads of cash -- colorful Afghan "Afghanis" mixed with hundred dollar bills.

Bookies call out the odds. Thousands of dollars are exchanged in each round -- a lot of money in a country where the average wage is about 30 dollars a month. Gambling is illegal in Afghanistan, but this sport and its accompanying vices have long been tolerated -- a police station is just 50 yards away.

Just inside the ring, urchins with tin platters circulate with sandwiches and juice, as men twitch with excitement.

The pugilists continue to strut around each other, clucking territorially. This, after all isn't cage fighting, its Kowk Fighting, one of Afghanistan's cherished national sports. Kowk are specially bred fighting partridges featuring distinct bright red beaks, black breast stripes, red lidded eyes and a war-paint like crescent that curves from above their eyes to their necks.

The birds gouge at each other, wings flapping, feathers flying. They seem to wrestle their opponent by clinging to their neck and flinging them down. It's neither bloody nor exciting and telling the birds apart takes special practice.

That doesn't stop the partridge owners from talking trash. "This bird is strong like Hulk Hogan," said one owner, called Faisullah, pointing to the plump bird in the wicker cage he held. "He can defeat anyone, anyone."

Has the bird been fought? "Oh yes, he has won twice and has never lost." 2-0, isn't bad, but hardly the Hulkster's record. Most of the fights end in technical knockouts because owners like Faisullah, who spent $500 on this particular bird, wouldn't dare let serious harm come to their prized possessions.