Great American Bites: Feast for less at Reno's Louis' Basque Corner

— -- The scene: Beneath the shiny veneer of mega-casino glitz and flashing neon, there is another, more authentic side to Reno. It can be seen in the cowboy-boot stores, the popular rodeos and the many working ranches that still surround the city, a gaming mecca that has maintained far more of a connection to its Old West roots than its Nevada sibling, Las Vegas. Reno's western history includes a large influx of sheepherders from Spain's Basque region, famed for their skills on the range, and while most of the sheep are long gone, the city still has a couple of Basque restaurants, relatively uncommon in the United States. Louis' Basque Corner, opened in 1967, is the oldest and by far the most popular (and the sixth oldest eatery in Reno). It was recently renovated and spruced up - opening up the interior to make it airier and brighter and adding a new coat of paint -- but you wouldn't know unless you had visited previously. Freestanding and just a few blocks from the downtown casinos, Louis' has a neighborhood feel, and as you walk in through the bar, you're immediately struck by the Old West flair, with wide wood plank floors, exposed bricks and beams, a deer head mounted on the wall, and the large mirrored saloon-style bar back. The bar is generally packed in the evenings with a diverse mix of locals and tourists, in everything from cowboy hats to Patagonia ski jackets.

On the busy weekend night I visited, at least half the patrons, myself included, were downing the signature Picon Punch, which the restaurant calls "the Basque cocktail" with a provenance dating to 1837. A potent blend of a bitter orange liqueur called Amer Picon, soda, brandy, and grenadine, it is unique but tastes vaguely like a less sweet, less tart margarita. After one or more of these, the crowds find their way around the corner into one of two small, bustling dining rooms that form an L-shape with the bar, both filled with large family-style tables for 10 to 12. These feature rustic embroidered fabrics under glass tops, and are simply adorned with red plastic opaque cafeteria-style water glasses and ketchup bottles. While there are reservations, these tables are filled in and typically served en masse, with the many shared platters of salads and sides passed among friends and strangers alike. Your only choices are the entree and dessert, and while this elbow-to-elbow scene is not for everyone, Louis' Basque Corner has a very loyal local and out-of-town clientele who come in large part for the boisterous camaraderie and friendly staff.

Reason to visit: Picon punch, Basque specialties, fries, lunch.