Great American Bites: Tasty burgers in the land of lobster

— -- The scene: With summer officially started, it is prime tourist season along the Maine seacoast, where most of the food scene has traditionally revolved around lobster and its seafood brethren, clams, shrimp and scallops, at roadside shacks and lobster pounds. These places are fun and a must-try on any visit to Maine, and I have covered a couple of notable examples in this column. But the culinary offerings in waterfront Portland, the state's largest city, are much, much different. Like Austin, Nashville and Birmingham, Ala., Portland has attracted a flurry of creative young chefs and undergone a hip food renaissance that goes far beyond its longtime regional specialties. Nosh Kitchen Bar is a perfect - and tasty - example.

Nosh is located in the touristy downtown harbor section of Portland, but on a less-visited commercial street that is just far enough off the beaten path where you have to seek it out, rather than stumble on it. It has a sleek mostly glass exterior and in good weather a few outdoor tables. Inside is a modern remake of a traditional pub, with a long sleek bar, counter seating, a single row of copper-topped tables and an open kitchen in the back. Behind the row of tables is more glass, with ample, plant-filled windows and plenty of light, while the bar is of the contemporary "mixology" cocktail-driven style. Food is served on rectangular stark white plates, and the overall result is an artsy but cozy, neighborhood feel; indeed, there are a lot of local regulars.

Reason to visit:Apocalypse Now burger, bacon-dusted fries, most sandwiches and tapas.

The food: Nosh fancies itself a modern remake of a New York-style deli, focused on upscale versions of traditional sandwiches and featuring meats that are butchered, brined, cured and/or roasted in-house. As much as possible, meats and other ingredients are natural and sourced locally from sustainable providers, and the offerings span a wide range of cultures. Sandwich choices run the gamut from classics like turkey with the fixings and a corned beef Reuben to Vietnamese chicken banh mi, falafel, buffalo-style pork belly, and pressed duck confit. The one thing you won't find is anything rolled up, since the menu declares Nosh "wrap free since 2010."

The restaurant's name is derived from the tapas-style small plates section of the menu, called "Noshing," which includes everything from artisanal cheeses and charcuterie platters to oyster shooters, tempura bacon and fried pickles. These dishes are available only after 4 p.m. (Nosh is open until 1 a.m.) while the rest of the menu is offered at lunch.

The other two menu highlights are sections titled Burgers and Fries, which will radically revise your conceptions of both. The fries are all made from a particular variety of potato, the Norwiss, and all supplied by one local grower in Lewiston, Maine. They are excellent, accompanied by ketchup and a choice of interesting dipping sauces like bleu cheese, chipotle mayo, sweet chili, sriracha, cheddar cheese or BBQ. The basic choices are sea salt and pepper, sea salt and vinegar, and bacon dusted, which are coated in finely crumbled bacon powder and taste - well like really good French fries covered with bacon powder.