Prinsengracht canal in Amsterdam.
(Travelpix Ltd/Getty Images)
Amsterdam is defined by its canals.
Built 400 years ago in concentric horseshoes, they are the rib cage of the city. Coasting their waters on a canal boat opens windows onto a history of vast wealth and global power. The cobbled streets alongside the canals are scenic urban pathways for walking or biking. And they are anchors for funky shops, cafes and — of course — Amsterdam's flamboyant Red Light district and marijuana bars.
The inner city of the Dutch capital is a compact warren of heritage buildings, of museums both grand and odd, of hidden gardens and outdoor markets — all within easy reach by any mode of transport except the unwelcome car.
No longer the bargain city of Europe, Amsterdam is still a town of wonders that can be had for a discount, and sometimes for free.
WALKING AND BIKING
Seeing 17th century Amsterdam, with its proud past and sometimes quirky culture on display, from a bike or on foot is a happy cost-free experience. Among its 2,000 or so bridges, the Bridge of 15 Bridges at the intersection of two canals is among the most spectacular, with a view of a series of stone spans whose arches are gracefully lit at night.
The city also has hidden gems that require guidance or tips to find: Some gardens, tucked away in courtyards or behind stately apartments, are open to the public any time, while others open on a special day of the year. The Rijksmuseum, with its Rembrandts and Vermeers, costs $14 (?11) entry, but its garden is open year-round for free.
The Begijnhof is a grassy courtyard surrounded by 14th century cottages — an oasis of quiet at one of the busiest sections of town where a small chapel often stages musical recitals. Near the Begijnhof is a covered passageway known as the Civics Guard Gallery, with 15 huge group portraits — from the same time as Rembrandt's Night Watch — of leading citizens from the Dutch Golden Age.
Outside the well-trod shopping lanes are the lesser known sections, like the "Nine Lanes," lined with tiny specialty establishments like the handmade soap shop, the spectacles museum and a store dedicated to toothbrushes. The Jordaan, once the working class district, has been revived with boutiques, tapas bars and ethnic restaurants.
